How to cook with shungiku

• THE leaves are used whole or roughly cut. They need only light cooking; overcooked leaves become bitter.

• LEAVES can be blanched, stir-fried or steamed, but only lightly. Stir-fry in a hot wok for seconds rather than minutes, as you would for spinach or bean sprouts.

• THE Japanese often blanch the leaves in boiling water for a few seconds, then plunge them into cold water to cool. • IF adding to soups or hot pots, add at the end of cooking.

• YOUNG tender shoots can be eaten raw in salads, sushi, with pickles, or dipped into tempura batter and deep-fried.

• YOUNG tender stems can be used but may require slightly more cooking. Start cooking first, then add leaves.

• SHUNGIKU wilts down a lot once cooking begins. Start with considerably more than you want to end up with.