Rugby's Newest Frontier

OITA CITY WAS A CRUCIAL VENUE AT THE WORLD CUP AND ONE THAT HAS PLENTY TO OFFER THOSE WHO MAKE IT THERE EVEN WHEN THERE IS NO RUGBY BEING PLAYED.

After hosting a brilliant World Cup, Japan has put itself on the rugby map. But what surely became clear as the tournament played out, is that it is a country offering a rich and diverse tourism experience and it's unique culture and identity is partly what made the World Cup the success it was.

And few places in Japan have more to offer than Oita, the site of the All Blacks pool game against Canada and venue for the quarter-finals involving England, Australia, Wales and France.

Oita is nestled in the North-East of Kyushu, Japan's third largest island. It is significantly smaller than both Honshu and Hokkaido and with 12 million inhabitants, is vastly under populated by Japanese standards.

It is green and spectacular. There are mountains, rivers, lakes and in the Oita prefecture, there are hot springs. Thousands of them and geysers and bubbling mud. It's a landscape that can't easily be forgotten.

At the heart of the region is Oita City, recognised as the birthplace of Western culture in Japan.

Traces of this history remain overt in the city today. At Funai Chuo Gate Square at the entrance to Oita City's JR Station, there is a giant floor map, showing Oita's place in the world during the 16th century.

There are statues and sculptures dedicated to the most influential figures of the period and most significantly there is the Otomo Ruins Discovery Centre to visit.

The Discovery Centre is an interactive journey through history and a hugely ambitious and impressive project to rebuild the residence of Oita's most significant ancient ruler – Sorin Otomo.

Anyone wanting to get their most out of their time in Oita City needs to be familiar

with the contribution of Sorin Otomo – the 21st feudal lord of the Otomo family that ruled Bungo-Funai [now Oita City] during the warring states period 450 years ago.

Sorin was drawn to look beyond Japan's shores for trade and cultural influence and brought European and other Asian produce into the area. More significantly he was also drawn to Christianity and in particular the teachings of Francis Xavier – whose influence on Sorin and the Bungo region was profound and lasting.

This connection with the West and promotion and protection of Christianity led to significant change. It brought Western-style hospitals and medicines to the region, as well as Western music, plays, theatres.

While there are tributes to Sorin throughout the city it is the Discovery Centre that best tells the story of his influence and standing in Oita's and Japan's history.

The Centre remains a work in progress and the eventual plan is to perfectly restore the Otomo residence as it stood in its ancient prime. Work is some way down the track already with the History Zone up and running.

This is where visitors can learn much about Sorin through various video presentations. Restoration of the gardens has begun and is expected to be finished in the Japanese spring of 2020 and for now, the tour involves taking an interactive experience through the magic of an iPad.

It's already a comprehensive and compelling attraction and useful means to learn the history of the region, but once the gardens are complete it will step up another level.

Every destination will claim they have certain 'must-do' things that absolutely have to be done while visitors are in the area.

Oita is no different and the 'must-do' is the Mt. Takasakiyama Natural Zoological Garden, better known to locals as the monkey park.

Situated between Oita City and Beppu City, Mt. Takasakiyama is a chance to see monkeys in their natural habitat.

It's a near unique experience where the monkeys live wild on the hillside and yet are fed every day and interact seamlessly and happily with humans.

There's a fascinating history to be learned while there which is that the monkeys have naturally split themselves into groups. There used to be three, but a lack of leadership a few years back saw one group fold and be absorbed into the other two and who knew that there would be such a fascinating power struggle playing out every day?

The politics can be seen at feeding time when the leaders take control – they eat first and they eat undisturbed while the rest of the pack squabble and scrap for whatever is left.

Visitors are encouraged to stand with their legs apart while they watch the monkeys feed and if you are lucky, a few will run between. The monkeys are friendly, but you are advised to not look them directly in the eye as this can agitate them.

The park has a train that can take visitors up the steep hill to observe the monkeys, but it is walkable. It's also best to keep an eye on the weather and be aware that if it is raining, the monkeys are likely to remain further up the hillside where they take shelter and won't come down to feed and be observed.

Of course, as a major urban centre with a population of around 478,574 there is much to be gained by simply strolling the streets of Oita City.

There are under cover shopping streets close to the station, including fashion boutiques, souvenirs and endless food outlets.

Oita has a rich and diverse culinary offering with the region renowned for its 'Bungo' beef. This is sourced from locally

bred cows whose meat is a near perfect mix of lean, marbled meat and fat for a melt in your mouth treat.

Other local treats include the famous Fugu – Puffer fish - and Kabosu, a citrus-like fruit that is versatile enough to be squeezed into Miso soup or grilled meats.

Line caught horse mackerel eaten as sashimi is another delicacy, as is chicken tempura. The real beauty of Oita, however, is the freshness and quality of the products and a trip to the central, Oita Bank Red Brick Hall provides an opportunity to buy all sorts of locallygrown and manufactured foods, snacks and crafts.

The building, which is Western-style, was designed by Kingo Tatsuno, who was also the creative force behind Tokyo Station.

There are also ample coffee houses, serving locally-sourced teas.

No trip to Oita would be complete without taken an Onsen - the fabled hot springs bathing experience.

Oita, with its endless natural springs is famed throughout Japan for its variety of public baths and of the best is The City Spa, surprisingly, to be found on the 21st floor of a building located above the city's central train station. It commands stunning views from such a vantage point.