Otago Daily Times

Chef’s stories seasoned with salt and raw honesty

- ANTHONY BOURDAIN

UNITED States celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain was working on a series on the world’s culinary traditions when he was found dead from suspected suicide in his hotel room in France on Friday a week ago.

The 61yearold was discovered by friend and fellow chef Eric Ripert.

The US network said Bourdain was in Strasbourg filming an upcoming segment in his series

Parts Unknown.

The CNN statement said: ‘‘His love of great adventure, new friends, fine food and drink, and the remarkable stories of the world, made him a unique storytelle­r. His talents never ceased to amaze us and we will miss him very much.’’

Chef Gordon Ramsay tweeted he was stunned and saddened.

Ramsay wrote that Bourdain ‘‘brought the world into our homes and inspired so many people to explore cultures’’.

Bizarre Foods host Andrew Zimmern wrote that a piece of his heart ‘‘is truly broken’’. Zimmern said ‘‘the sad cruel irony’’ is that in the past year, Bourdain had never been happier.

Actor and former Man v Food

host Adam Richman tweeted ‘‘Why?’’ Richman said his heart was with Bourdain.

The American chef, author and television personalit­y was born in New York City and raised in Leonia, New Jersey. He had written that his love of food began as a youth while on a family vacation in France, when he ate his first oyster.

Bourdain’s profile began to soar in 1999, when the New

Yorker magazine published his article ‘‘Don’t Eat Before

Reading This’’, which he developed into the 2000 book Kitchen Confidenti­al: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly.

‘‘I love the sheer weirdness of the kitchen life: the dreamers, the crackpots, the refugees, and the sociopaths with whom I continue to work; the everpresen­t smells of roasting bones, searing fish, and simmering liquids; the noise and clatter, the hiss and spray, the flames, the smoke, and the steam,’’ he wrote in the New Yorker article.

The article and books caught on, not just because of the vivid writing, though: they were also full of tips for the unwary diner.

Never order fish in a New York restaurant on Monday, Bourdain warned: it may well be the leftovers of Friday’s delivery for the busy weekend.

Tuesday, however, he suggested as a good day for dining out: the chef was likely to be back from his day off and kicking off the week with creative dishes.

As for those ordering welldone meat, he wrote, they were likely to get the most miserablel­ooking cuts that the chef would be ashamed to serve to other customers.

He went on to host television programmes, first on the Food Network and the Travel Channel, before joining CNN in 2013.

He achieved widespread fame thanks to his CNN series Parts Unknown and was filming an upcoming segment for the show when he was found.

Bourdain told the New Yorker in 2017 that his idea for Parts Unknown, which was in its 11th season, was travelling, eating and doing whatever he wanted.

‘‘I travel around the world, eat a lot of s..., and basically do whatever the f... I want.’’

Parts Unknown seemed like an odd choice for CNN when it started in 2013 — part travelogue, part history lesson, part love letter to exotic foods. Each trip was an adventure. There had been nothing quite like it on the network and it became an immediate hit.

He mixed a coarseness and a whimsical sense of adventurou­sness, true to the spirit of the rock’n’roll music he loved.

‘‘We are constantly asking ourselves, first and foremost: what is the most [messed] up thing we can do next week?’’ he said in a 2014 interview.

Bourdain’s celebrity was such that when then US president Barack Obama went to Hanoi, Vietnam in May 2016, he met him at a casual restaurant for a $US6 meal of noodles and grilled pork.

Bourdain said he struggled with celebrity and there was a down side to the internatio­nal exposure his show gave dive bars and holeinthew­all eateries.

‘‘If I name the place . . . I’ve changed it,’’ Bourdain said in a 2017 interview on Fresh Air.

‘‘The next time I go back, there’s tourists. There’s people who’ve seen it on the show. And then I might hear from the same person from that neighbourh­ood say, ‘you ruined my favourite bar’, you know? All the regular customers have run away and it’s filled with, you know, tourists in ugly Tshirts and flipflops.’’

Bourdain’s last Instagram post came after his arrival in France, and four days before his death.

‘‘Light lunch. #Alsace,’’ he wrote beside a photograph of a plate of choucroute, the region’s traditiona­l pickled cabbage, with bacon, pork and sausages.

Chefs, fans and US President Donald Trump were among those stunned and saddened by the news. ‘‘I want to extend to his family my heartfelt condolence­s,’’ Trump said.

Bourdain was twice divorced and has a daughter from his second marriage.

 ?? PHOTO: TNS ?? Celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain at Tintol restaurant in New York in April 2006.
PHOTO: TNS Celebrity chef Anthony Bourdain at Tintol restaurant in New York in April 2006.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from New Zealand