Fashioning an identity
In light of iD Fashion’s 20th anniversary, Brittany Pooley looks back through the lens of Dunedin fashion designer Margarita Robertson.
AS Dunedin fashion label NOM*d hit the big time in London, back home Dunedin’s own fashion identity was being born.
The year was 1999.
Under the direction of Margarita Robertson, NOM*d became known as one of the ‘‘New Zealand Four’’ — a name given to the selection of New Zealand fashion brands chosen to show at London Fashion Week.
NOM*d paraded first, followed by WORLD, Karen Walker and Zambesi, each presenting the uniquely New Zealand design attributes that would come to characterise New Zealand’s fashion industry.
That same year, a band of Dunedin designers formed a vision for local fashion.
Their goal was to exhibit local talent, magnify Dunedin’s existing fashion culture and support emerging designers — iD Fashion was born.
While iD held its first fashion event in 1999 at the nowclosed Bennu Restaurant and Bar, it did not join forces with NOM*d until the following year.
‘‘Interestingly, NOM*d was not invited to be part of the very first event at Bennu. However, they have been a longstanding participant from the next year until now,’’ Robertson, the brand’s founder and creative director, says.
Since 2000, NOM*d has continued to be a featured brand of iD Fashion. As well, Robertson herself has a longstanding commitment to the event, taking on various roles.
‘‘There were some years when I personally was not in attendance due to a clash with Paris Fashion Week but I’m pleased to say that conflict has not occurred now for several years. Luckily, I have a wonderful team in our workroom and the delegation of duties and expectations comes from a welloiled machine’’.
Robertson’s earliest memories of the event are ones that evoke a sense of pride for the city.
‘‘The first show at the [Dunedin] Railway Station, which was produced by a gang of enthusiasts, made the news big time. I’m so proud that Dunedin was able to present New Zealand with an event that has now become so recognised as belonging to our city. Designers outside of Dunedin are gagging to be involved’’ Robertson says.
This high regard for iD is something Robertson believes still holds today and she feels the show will only continue to grow and thrive.
‘‘It has just got better and better for both the participants and the audience. The latest productions have given the viewers a different perspective which keeps the whole event new and fresh. And of course digital technology allows global awareness, so it’s imperative that the show is professional and alive!’’
iD Fashion Week is known for its ability to project the forecast for the year’s fashion. This future focus is wellreflected through Robertson’s own brand, NOM*d.
‘‘My favourite collection is always the last one we presented, I feel that NOM*d is forever evolving and improving without compromising our ideals and philosophy’’.
Last year at iD NOM*d presented an inviteonly event, ‘‘Jeepers Creepers’’, with the addition of an installation that included a holographic light show and music.
‘‘It was cool to present our own story rather than being part of a group show and give our local clientele a taste of what NOM*d does in a solo fashion show environment’’.
As well as her role with NOM*d, Robertson is a recurring judge of the iD International Emerging Designer Awards.
Last year iD celebrated its successful emerging design awards by taking the production to New Zealand Fashion Week in a show that captured the last 15 years of iD Emerging Design.
Designers from all around the world come to meet Robertson and receive her valued feedback on their designs.
‘‘The involvement in judging of emerging designers I really enjoy. It’s fantastic to see how new generations of designers and their styles have evolved and how the technology of fashion fabrications is progressing.
‘‘The interest from students from all over the globe is incredible — the event is international.’’
During her career as a judge, Robertson has helped many emerging designers get their start, some of whom have left a vivid impression.’’
‘‘I think Steve Hall from Hawke’s Bay and Rakel Blom from Iceland are two designers whose work I still can think about with a clear picture in my head.’’
This year, Robertson will judge alongside a powerhouse panel of designers, including New Zealand designers Kate Sylvester, Benny Castles (WORLD) and Tanya Carlson (CARLSON) and Viva editor Amanda Linnell.
A near clash with Paris Fashion Week will not keep Robertson away from this year’s iD Fashion events.
As well as performing her role as a judge, NOM*d has been announced as one of 16 featured participants that will show this year.
It is also the 20th anniversary of the event, which has undergone some change in recent years.
Last year it left behind its famous outdoor runway event at the Dunedin Railway
Station to hold the emerging designer show at the Dunedin Town Hall.
This year, iD is merging the emerging designer event with its runway show of established readytowear designs in a show that will run over two nights at the Regent Theatre.
‘‘I’m excited to see how the talented producers create the set. And the audience won’t need to think about keeping warm.
‘‘It gives the whole town a sense of excitement and makes us appreciate how many fashion designers are here, and the vast range of genres that exist.
‘‘It will be a wonderful week.’’
The first show at the [Dunedin] Railway
Station, which was produced by a gang of enthusiasts, made the news big time. I’m so proud that Dunedin was able to present New Zealand with an event that has now become
so recognised as belonging to our city. Designers outside of Dunedin are gagging to
be involved