For more fashion & beauty news go to Viva.co.nz BEAT THE HEAT

Ashleigh Cometti breaks down sunscreen ingredients so you can approach the shelves with confidence this summer

FALL THEPRODUCTSTO grace your bathroom shelf, sunscreen remains one of the most hotly contested topics in the realm of

skincare.

This year-round essential is the most efficacious way to shield skin from cancercausing ultraviolet rays, aswell as combat the visible signs of premature ageing including fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone.

Whilemany of us understand the importance of this vital skincare step, selecting the right broad-spectrum formulation to suit your specific skin type and needs can be overwhelming.

As the descriptors listedoneach bottle continue to multiply— chemical, physical, reef-friendly— there are far more decisions tomake.

Back-of-bottle ingredients continue to baffle the uninitiated, with ingredients like zinc oxide, titanium dioxide (or a combination of the two) mystifying shoppers just as muchas the varying sun protection factor (SPF) levels do.

Active ingredients contained within sunscreens harness either physical (also known as mineral) or chemicaluvfilters that protect the skin fromuvrays. Eachuses a different mechanism for protecting skin in sunlight — physical filters like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide reflect and scatteruvradiation, whilechemical filters work by safely absorbinguvradiation.

Earlier this year, thefda publisheda study* that showedhow commonly used chemical filters including oxybenzone, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate and avobenzone are systematically absorbed into the body after just one use. The study also found that these sunscreen ingredients remainedon the skin and in the bloodstreamin the weeks following application.

Ascary thought yes, but while findings show that sunscreen chemicals are circulating in the bloodstream, thefda maintains it does not haveenough information to determinewhether these chemicals are harmful. For now, the aforementioned ingredients are deemedas Grase(generally recognised as safe and effective) bythe FDA.

Then there’s the issue of trusting claims made by manufacturers. Every year, watchdog organisationconsumer calls into question the declared SPF levels of a crosssection of local and imported brands.

Its most recent report found that five sunscreens failed tomeet the SPF claims on the bottle, two of which also did not provide broad-spectrum protection despite stating otherwise.

The Ministry ofhealth has since confirmed that an impending law change will require sunscreens to be regulated in Newzealand.

It’s been a long timecoming, with both Consumer and the Cancer Society having pushed for sunscreenregulation for years. But ondecember 9 a Ministry ofhealth spokesperson confirmed this change will come as part of thenzcanceraction Plan 2019-29.

The Therapeutic Products Bill will replace themedicinesact 1981, which will see sunscreens regulatedasmedicines instead of cosmetics, holding themtoa higher standard to ensure their safety, efficacy and quality. The bill remains in its draft phase due to Covid-causeddelays.

Selecting the right sunscreen that won’t irritate skin, harm theenvironment, or won’t budgewhen you sweatmayseeman impossible task, but according to Dr Fernandes, a sunscreen that combines the benefits of a physical and chemical sunscreen is your best bet.

“I believe thecombination of physical and chemical sunscreens can potentially give us the safest and most effective sunscreens, especially as a single product. One would depend on having a strong (but not visible) physical ingredient concentration, with aweaker chemical sunscreen,” he says.

Despite popular opinion, Environ founder and scientific directordr Fernandes says that a combination of the two in sunscreens that range from SPF 15 to 25 are his pick. “Onecould also use a low dose SPF10 chemical sunscreen with a SPF 15-20 physical sunscreen,” he says, adding that regular application is key to staying protected.

Applying sunscreen 20minutesbefore sun exposure and reapplying every two hours is your best line of defence. Maximise protection by being sun smart— ensure a hat and sunglasses remain stashed in your beach bag, and avoid sun exposure during high sun hours.

There’s no one-size-fits-all approach to howmuch sunscreen to apply, but your aim should be to ensureevery part of uncovered skin is protected, including your hairline, ears, neck and chest says Gina Russell, educationmanager forheliocare Newzealand.

“It doesn’t make sense to tell people that they have to useaprescribed amount because people don’t go withmeasuring spoons to the beach,” Dr Fernandes adds. “Be liberal in application and rub it well all over the skin. It’s always more needed than people think and if in doubt, reapply after 30 minutes.”

Local organisation Sun Smart offers a useful tool to help beachgoers determine when extra protection is needed with its Sun Protection Alert. See Sunsmart.org.nz for more information.

SAVVYSUNSCREENS

■ Newfrom renowneddermatologist Dr Dennis Gross is the All Physical Daily Defenseuvshield SPF50, $85, which recruits physicaluvfilters like zinc oxide to provide broad-spectrumuvprotection, while antioxidant-rich vitamin E targets wrinkles and dark spots.

■ Dermalogica Invisible Physicaldefense SPF30, $103, is a lightweight, physical sunscreen that absorbs into skin quickly, minus the icky white residue that often comes with sunscreenuse. This new-tomarket offering contains ultra-sheer zinc oxide to defend againstuvaanduvbrays while protecting against blue light pollution.

■ Heliocare 360° Mineral Tolerance Fluid SPF50, $66, is a reef-friendly option which looks to 100 per cent mineral filters to provide broad-spectrum protection and keep free radicals at bay. It also harnesses fern-derived antioxidants to tackle stubborn pigmentation.

■ Environ Rad Shield Mineral Sunscreen SPF15, $93, forms a protective barrieron skin using a combination of zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, which creates a physical block againstuvaanduvbrays.

■ Metoday Sun Care Natural SPF30, $40, offers broad-spectrumuvaanduvb protection and rich hydration for both face and body, thanks to its blend of botanicals, antioxidants and vitamins, alongside nano zinc oxide.