SUVA HEROES
Fiji’s friendly capital has a charm all of its own, writes Mike Yardley
BEYOND THE BROCHUREPERFECT, palm-fringed beaches that woo the world to her shores, why not add a flavourful dollop of urban heart and soul in Suva? Huddled around a hilly peninsula towering above Suva Harbour, this verdantly green city is as architecturally diverse as its melting-pot populace. Suva’s jumble of grand colonial confections, modern shopping plazas, abundance of eateries and a breezy esplanade form the nucleus of the city centre. The famed friendliness of Fijians was just as pervasive in Suva, with the Bula count averaging about 4 per minute as I strolled the compact, colourful and bustling streets of the capital.
The resplendent rainbow of colours and frenetic trading bustle at the magnificent Municipal Market was positively electric as I trawled the vast cobweb of lanes and produce-laden stalls. Marvel over the mudcrabs as large as dinner plates; the profusion of bargain-basement tropical fruit; the charming ladies touting freshly cut flowers from the villages — and the entire level dedicated to the kava stall holders.
Top quality yaqona (kava) root fetches around $40 a kilo — only cheapskates opt for the powdered, less intoxicating, stems.
After savouring the market’s merriment and extraordinary bounty, take a stroll down atmospheric Cumming St, richly flanked with colonial-era wooden buildings with sweeping verandahs and spirited saloon bars. Nearby, the ornately towering grace of Sacred Heart Cathedral, crafted from sandstone shipped over in Sydney, 120 years ago.
For a winning lunch, make tracks to Kanu, one of the newest, coolest fine dining spots in town. The restaurant, formerly known as Governors and housed in a colonial-style bungalow, is now run by Lance Seeto.
For lunch I had Thai Drunken Spaghetti, a spicy marinara of prawns, fish, octopus, clams, basil, oyster sauce, chilli and lemon. Finding some room for dessert, I sweetly surrendered to Kanu’s Icecream Pie, consisting of coconut ice cream, biscuit base, chocolate fudge and fruit compote.
The vast green oasis of Albert Park arguably embodies the spirit of Suva. As the sun slumps on the horizon, bathing the grounds in a golden light, hordes of locals meet up to kick the rugby ball around, with unbridled passion. It’s about as Fiji as it gets. The park is where Charles Kingsford Smith touched down on his epic Trans-pacific crossing from California to Australia, in 1928. There’s a magnificent trail of monuments
and information panels, honouring his epic achievement.
If you like your holiday roost served with a side of history, push the boat out and drop anchor at the Raffles of the South Pacific, the Grand Pacific Hotel.
This charming old lady has been enjoying a new lease on life, after falling into disrepair and ultimately being shuttered in the 1980s. Impeccably restored and reopened eight years ago, it has regained its stature as one of the South Pacific’s finest heritage hotels.
The landmark property wows with its creamy-white neoclassical facade, wrought-iron fencing, Romanesque columns, arched doorways and open-air galleries. Featured on the Fijian $10 note, it’s clearly a national treasure. Witness to history, the past is everywhere, from vintage photos and retro trinkets to the faithfully restored interiors.
Luminaries such as Noel Coward, Somerset Maugham, James Michener, Dame Nellie Melba and Kingsford Smith have stayed in the Heritage Rooms of the original building, as have a litany of visiting Royals. The rooms feature dark, soothing colours, plush curtains, oriental rugs and photos of old Suva, and push-open double doors leading to the wrapround pillared balcony.
There are only 10 guest rooms in the original building, but the property also boasts two new wings complete with a gym, a spa and 103 guest rooms.
From the doormen to the waitstaff, service is impeccable, courteous and warm — an exercise in grace without the stuffy pretentiousness. The long swimming pool is lovely, with views of Suva’s harbour and jagged mountains. Enjoy a formal dinner at the Prince Albert restaurant, tucking into lemon and mango-poached octopus carpaccio.
I also loved the Steamship Bar, an elegant spot for cocktails. (I spotted a dozen burly police officers ensconced in the bar at 4am, fixated on the live TV coverage of the Rugby Sevens from London.)
Shaped by the past but calibrated for the present, the Grand Pacific is an evocative, and irresistible experience.
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