Rolling through the Rockies
Kate Webster tackles the limitless terrain of the Canadian Rockies by rail and road — oh, and also by herself
Travelling solo offers the liberties of choosing your adventure without negotiating your experience with fellow travellers. It can be limiting though, especially when travelling overland for long distances. You need to navigate directions — maps and road signs — and while doing so, lose the opportunity to just gaze out the window and enjoy the views.
As a first-time traveller to Canada, I wanted to ensure I saw it all, while doing so at a slower pace. So I opted for an easier solo adventure, where someone did that driving for me – by rail and road.
Spanning more than 1600km across two provinces: British Columbia and Alberta, the majestic mountains of the Canadian Rockies are a view you don’t want to miss. The limitless terrain is mind-blowing. The beauty of this mountainous area will have your gaze fixed constantly on your surroundings. Add to that weather conditions and wildlife hazards, it can seem just as wild to traverse solo.
All aboard
That is why I opted for the iconic Rocky Mountaineer train to take me part of the way through the Canadian Rockies. Boarding the train at a small station outside downtown Vancouver, my excitement for what lay ahead grew. Dubbed one of the most famous train journeys on the planet, the Rocky Mountaineer “First Passage to the West” trip would be more of an experience than simply transportation.
The First Passage to the West, is the most historic Rocky Mountaineer route, known for uniting Canada by connecting the country to British Columbia more than 125 years ago. Though the train itself has a relatively short history, the routes and the sights through the Canadian Rockies are blessed with a rich history.
Pulling out of the station, I settled into my heated leather reclining seat on the upper-level Goldleaf service. The custom-designed, bi-level, glass-domed carriage had full-length windows, making it feel like I was in a fishbowl.
The lower-level dining car offered just as much in the way of views, so even when having meals you won’t miss a thing. The first meal with other train guests was the icebreaker and I realised that travelling alone on the Rocky Mountaineer didn’t mean I had to eat alone.
Dining with new friends and watching the perpetually-changing scenery, I soon lost any sense of solitude as I became a member of the larger carriage group. Exploring the carriage further, I discovered the exclusive outdoor viewing platform. Here you can feel the fresh air and even smell the pine forests as you travel through the different terrains.
As the train journeyed away from Vancouver and the coastline, the ever-changing views went from the fertile greenery of the Fraser Valley, to the mighty Fraser River and raging whitewater of historic Hells Gate. After a full day, it was time to disembark in Kamloops for an overnight stay before heading off the following morning for the journey to Banff.
As we ascended further into the Rockies, the scenery changed to majestic mountains that stretched to the sky. Around each bend was a new discovery, wildlife starting to show up more frequently the closer we got to Banff. I spotted two black bears, bighorn sheep and a lone coyote. Ending my rail journey in Banff, I was exhausted from the sensory overload, laughter with newfound friends and overindulgence in fine dining and unlimited alcoholic beverages.
Hit the road
While the Rocky Mountaineer is classed as one of the most famous train journeys, the drive from Banff to Jasper on the Icefields Parkway ranks as one of the most beautiful in the world. The nearly 300km stretch is stunning, with seasonal sights of snowy peaks or lush greenery. The best way to do this is via a one-way tour, so you can take in all the sights along the way while not having to do the actual driving.
I set off from Banff with Sundog Tours for their full day (approximately 8-hour) tour, including a stop at the Columbia Icefield. Our first highlight was Lake Louise. Picture-perfect even when
frozen in winter, the emerald lake is surrounded by soaring mountain peaks, the majestic Victoria Glacier and home to the iconic Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise hotel.
Located in Banff National Park, this Unesco World Heritage Site is recognised for progressive environmental stewardship and responsible tourism. I loved it so much that I stayed for a few luxury nights on my return from Jasper.
Continuing to Jasper, the road trip took us through a spectacular landscape of mammoth mountains, jagged snowy peaks, and glaciers, broken up only by the wildlife that kept popping up. Black bears foraged for berries by the roadside, mountain goats grazed on clifftops, elk with giant antlers gathered in herds and bighorn sheep perched themselves on rocky outcrops.
We journeyed through Banff National Park to Jasper National Park, visiting Crowfoot Glacier, Bow Lake, the Weeping Wall and Athabasca Falls. At the Columbia Ice fields, I took the side trip explorer tour and ventured out on to the Athabasca Glacier before heading to the Glacier Skywalk overlooking the Sunwapta Valley.
Arriving at Jasper in the evening, I settled into the iconic Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. Wrapped around the shores of the pristine lake Lac Beauvert, this mountain resort has a village-like charm with cedarwood chalets and cabins connected by picturesque paths. Here I was greeted by more sensational views and wildlife like grizzly bears and whitetail deer, right on the doorstep of my cabin.
I had made it solo across the country from Vancouver to Jasper. The journey was filled with unforgettable moments in the company of some friendly locals, like-minded travellers, unique wildlife and the ever-present Canadian Rocky Mountains. It was a trip to remember.