Savannah

department.’’

In fact, Save The Elephant’s anti-poaching operations and conservation work in Samburu has resulted in such a dramatic drop in the decline of elephants in the past four years, that poaching is now at pre-crisis levels. Meanwhile World Animal Protection is set to release a report about the Asian elephant, assessing the welfare and scale of elephant tourism and exploitation in Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Nepal, as well as parts of India and Sri Lanka.

This month a public petition was launched in the UK and championed by Prince William calling for the government to ban the country’s domestic ivory market. The petition attracted more than 100,000 signatures. Alongside China’s historic decision to ban the ivory trade, this revelation appears to shed a small light at the end of the tunnel for elephant conservation.

But this doesn’t mean Save The Elephants – which relies on funds and donations to carry out its work – can rest on its laurels, especially as catastrophic rates of killing continue in other parts of Africa.

‘‘Now that China has committed to ending the ivory trade, markets are starting to shift across the border into Vietnam and Laos where there is barely any control at all,’’ says Pope.

‘‘Elephants have been wiped out from vast tracts of the central African forest and the savannahs have lost a third of their population in just a decade. The battle for elephants is far from over.’’

And it’s a battle worth fighting for. During my work in Samburu, I discover that elephants are loyal, intelligent, trusting, compassionate, protective and integral to our world.

I photograph baby elephants being gently nudged up muddy banks by the entire herd, matriarchs leading their families cautiously over crocodile-infested rivers and even witness a leopard stalk a baby elephant before being chased away by the matriarch.

I hear heart-breaking stories of entire herds being wiped out by poachers yet uplifting tales of orphaned babies starting new families. I also learn that elephants command and deserve great respect.

I’m shown the smashed up truck at the Save The Elephants research camp that was beaten to a pulp by a frustrated bull elephant in musth, a periodic condition where they experience increased aggression and testosterone levels.

Luckily the two researchers inside escaped unhurt, but the elephant turned over the heavy vehicle as though it were a piece of mere plywood.

Fortunately our encounter with the matriarch is a lot less violent and after her dramatic display, we decide to leave the Royals to their twilight grazing and head back to camp just as the sun is setting.

It’s one of those postcard African sunsets where the land is bathed in a deep red and orange glow.

An aroma of mint from the ‘‘Toothbrush Tree’’ the epephants have been rubbing against have rubbed up against permeates the air and I feel like I’m in paradise.

The next morning, I’m due to leave Samburu and it’s hard to stop the tears from flowing. I cry not just because I’m leaving this magical place, but for the uncertain future of the elephant families left behind.

I think about the matriarch who stood so magnificently and terrifyingly close to our vehicle and pray that not only will she have a long and fulfilling elephant life, but one day she’ll no longer have to defend her family against the brutality of mankind.

* To donate to Save The Elephants go to: savetheelephants.org