Peak of pleasure and pain
Be prepared for sudden weather changes, and it’s no easy walk in the park. But the vistas and alpine colours more than make up for any discomfort, writes Miri Schoeter.
Walking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in spring definitely has its benefits, with four seasons in one day and just the right amount of people to stop for a chat without being overcrowded.
One minute the sun is beaming down – too hot for four layers of clothing – and the next minute you’ll feel the crunch of snow under your boots.
But on this perfect October weekend, I truly had 360-degree views of mountains, bush and lakes – with not a cloud in sight.
Whatever the season, it’s as magical as the Lord of the Rings films depict it – with Mount Doom and Mordor looming just a few steps beyond –and a few thousand more. The walk is in Tongariro National Park, about 70 kilometres from Taupo¯ in the North Island. The main track is about 19km, one way. Most people find that’s enough for a day’s exercise, but you’ll see the odd person pass by, heading in the opposite direction.
The trek takes between six and nine hours, depending on your fitness. Some battle with the uphill hikes; others breeze through. The start is marked as the Mangatepopo car park, south of the crossing. The track then heads north and finishes closer to the Turangi end of the national park.
It is best to get a shuttle to the car park. The Department of Conservation (DOC) has introduced a four-hour parking restriction to stop overcrowding. People now risk having their wheels clamped, so paying for a shuttle service will mean a less stressful experience.
Our group of eight were picked up by a private shuttle from our luxury lodges at the Kinloch Club, after a 5.30am wake-up call (we started walking about 8.30am).
We were taken to Adrift Guided Outdoor Adventures in Tongariro to pick up hiking equipment, including boots, gloves and waterproof gear. We then headed to the car park. The weather was starting to heat up, so we left the ice picks in the van. If you don’t conquer mountains on a weekly basis, or race up stairs regularly, this can be a tough walk.
While it was a breeze for seasoned walkers in our group, the less experienced were close to setting up camp in the bush for the night as the thought of another uphill battle became increasingly unbearable.
Several steep climbs including the Devil’s Staircase help the muscles warm up in preparation for more hilly sections. Luckily, what goes up must come down – sometimes in a sliding motion.
My inner daredevil came out as I skidded down a steep gravel slope at the halfway point.
For some, the notoriously slippery slope is quite daunting as they dig their hands into the ground for a slow descent. No matter how you get down, the striking lakes below are worth a grazed knee or two. Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe stand proud on a cloudless day. MIRI SCHROETER/STUFF The peaks were still snow-capped, which added to the crossing’s array of colours.
The Red Crater gives the landscape another dash of colour, and further afield the blue lakes glimmer in the sun.
They are so rich in colour they look warm and inviting, but people are told by DOC rangers to avoid the sacred water.
By the end of this month DOC will introduce new rangers, who will, among other things, advise hikers not to climb the peaks of Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe, which are also considered tapu.
Instead, we admired the landscape from the comfort of the adjacent rocky surface. Grooves in the stone acted perfectly as chairs so I sat back, relaxed and had a well-deserved lunch.
I’d recommend a hearty meal with plenty of carbohydrates and fruit to keep energy levels high. Having a little snack at each pit stop also gives a good boost.
I was walking with the faster end of the group so we decided to take a detour after lunch to pass some time.
Not surprisingly, there were more hills to conquer past the lakes. I’m glad we decided to wander around one hill because we discovered steam billowing from the hillside. These vents emitted the eggy smell of sulphur, immediately bringing back childhood memories of family trips to Rotorua.
The landscape’s colours had morphed from the crater’s deep maroon, to the bluest lakes, to mustard-coloured rocks steaming from the heat in the earth below – an astonishing range.
But there were more surprises to come as we headed back to the regular track. There we were greeted by a thick layer of snow. And while most of the track was dry or dotted with a few puddles, this 1km stretch was hard on my legs as my boots sunk into the crisp ground. The snow was so thick that it hadn’t turned into muddy slush. If only I’d saved a carrot to make a snowman’s face. It may feel like a still, windless day but once you get up the first hill, a cold gust will smack you in the face. I went from stripping down to a singlet, to rapidly throwing on a merino, jumper, windbreaker and raincoat to act as a second wind protectant.
I’d suggest taking sunglasses no matter what the weather. Dealing with glare from the white snow was a lot easier wearing shades. Sunglasses will also keep dust out of your eyes when heading over rubble during what feels like a wind storm.
Having spent the winter running in the dark with grey cloud coverage most days, I forgot the importance of sunscreen. I TOM LEE/STUFF MIRI SCHROETER/STUFF counted myself lucky that my skin only turned pink rather than beetroot-red. I managed to scrounge some from another hiker, but ideally it would be best to apply it two or three times during the day. Taking a guided tour is not only educational (the guide will point out historic lava sites and Lord of the Rings film sites) but also a comfort for less-experienced hikers.
The guide will encourage you to keep walking when you’re feeling deflated and want to give up, and they will give you a helping hand if you’re feeling cautious on a steep slope.
For people travelling alone, a guide is not only someone to chat to, but can also provide help in difficult areas where a broken bone is a remote possibility. Some say it should be classed as a hike rather than a day walk, so be prepared for more than a stroll in the park.
The Tongariro Crossing is for the adventurer, the wanderer, the photographer and the daydreamer. It’s a walk every New Zealander or overseas visitor should experience. ● The writer travelled courtesy of Navigate Oceania. TOM LEE/STUFF