A private idyll just for you
Pepin Island has a series of hidden huts, where you can experience a $16 million private island for less than $200 a night, writes Brook Sabin and Radha Engling.
Have you ever dreamed of being a millionaire? Now’s your chance to feel like one, for less than $200 a night. Pepin Island is magnificent. If you’ve never heard of it, let’s look at it in
Lord of the Rings terms. Imagine if Hobbiton and Mordor were somehow able to procreate, and its progeny plonked itself just off the upper South Island. The island is quite literally Middle Earth, it’s very close to the centre of New Zealand.
Let me explain. From a distance, Pepin Island shoots up from the ocean with dramatic cliffs, and towering hills, full of Mordor-like drama. But on closer inspection, it has the innocent hues of Hobbiton, with shire-like greens, surrounded by emerald waters.
The island is owned by a German family, who bought it as a rundown farm in 1996. Since then, it’s been transformed into one of the country’s most picturesque sheep and cattle stations.
But that’s not all. Dotted around this intriguing place is a series of huts you can stay in. I found out about them just before lockdown, having seen a photo of a clifftop bathtub. I was so intrigued by the place that I made it one of my first post-lockdown destinations to investigate.
With an over-enthusiastic thud, we landed in Nelson. Perhaps it was the pilot’s first day back?
It was my first visit to the clouds in months, and I couldn’t have been more excited.
Pepin Island sits just 30 minutes north of the city, near Cable Bay, our first link to the world.
In 1876, our international telegraph station formed an underwater link with Sydney from there, meaning communication with Europe took just four days, instead of the usual months by ship.
It’s pretty astonishing to think that 140 years later, the GPS on my phone is helping me navigate to Cable Bay by communicating with a server in the United States in a matter of milliseconds.
We arrive at a golden ‘‘drawbridge’’ linking us to the island – a sandy boulder bank with a little road. Then it was up to the manager’s house to check in.
The 518-hectare island has three huts, meaning if you divide the island into three, you still have roughly the size of 160 rugby fields to yourself.
Guests are given the option of taking a walking adventure to their hut, or an off-roader for a small fee. If you have a lot of food to carry, the latter is a no-brainer.
Our hut happened to be at the other end of the island, so we opted for a 20-minute drive. It was spectacularly memorable.
The track weaved up the side of the hill, then traversed dramatic cliff-lined corners, with phenomenal views at each turn. The place is so big; it’s easy to forget it’s a working sheep farm until you spot the occasional white dot in the distance.
I was spellbound. It had the feel of a highcountry station, yet the views of a cliff-top luxury lodge. So, what would we find to sleep in?
At the end of the island, after a steep descent, we entered a thick wall of native bush. It’s here, down a short path, we found Rocky Point Hut nestled in native ka¯ nuka on a cliff.
The room is a perfectly-appointed bush hut. There’s a comfortable bed in the far corner, a basic kitchen, bar table, and little mini-bar with locally made treats, such as white chocolate-covered blueberries.
At this point, I expect most would slip into the plush dressing gowns and raid the mini-bar while enjoying the view – there are secret little lookouts with chairs dotted around the place to discover.
We headed up a little rocky path to find an extravagant bathtub perched on another cliff overlooking the sea. It is unapologetically romantic, with a rustic, off-grid vibe.
Given the huts are solar powered, with just two lights, short winter days allow for an indulgent luxury: jumping into bed at 7pm.
While we may not be able to travel to Fiji or Rarotonga, island time still exists on Pepin Island.
Because there’s no heating, and you’re on holiday, there is no burning need to get out of bed – just enjoy the morning chorus of birds that surrounds the hut, and fall back into a dawn slumber.
We do need to talk about heating. The huts don’t have any. That means it can get a little chilly in winter. For some, getting rugged up in warm clothes and embracing the elements warms the soul. But, for those who are expecting toasty winter warmth, it’s best to consider a spring or summer escape to the island.
The next day we were on a trek to the top of the island – a steep one-hour walk that takes you more than 396 metres above sea level. The spectacular views are worth the effort.
After enjoying the panorama, we descended to explore hidden beaches. There are dozens around the island. The farm’s manager even found a new one near Rocky Point Hut recently.
On return to our cabin, the allure of the bath
became too much. The generously sized tub has phenomenal views, so we soaked and watched a spectacular sunset.
The island has two other cabins to choose from. Passage Hut is on the opposite side of the island, down by the Cable Bay inlet. It is the newest of the cabins, with a cosy romantic atmosphere and better facilities. It would be my first pick, followed closely by Rocky Point.
Nikau Hut is much more basic, with a classic Kiwi bach-meets-glamping-type of feel. But at $110 for up to four people – with the lawn available for extra campers – it’s an excellent spot for a back-tobasics catch-up with friends.
So, next time you buy a Lotto ticket and hope to strike it big to buy a private island – why not give it a test drive first?
Here, you won’t find a five-star luxury lodge; it’s a romantic adventure for couples where the emphasis is on nature, and each other.
If you do fancy buying it all, the island was last put up for sale for $16 million. That makes $190 a night seem like a bargain.
The writer travelled with the support of NelsonTasman.nz.
The 518-hectare island has three huts, meaning if you divide the island into three, you still have roughly the size of 160 rugby fields to yourself.