Our Golden tropics
We may not be able to travel overseas, but there’s a slice of the South Island that feels like a tropical island. And luxury retreats can be found for a bargain. Brook Sabin and Radha Engling check it out.
Ifeel like I could be tucked away in a secluded bay in Fiji. Turquoise waters lap at my feet, and the only footprints on the beach are my own. The sun is trying its best to age me prematurely but, thankfully, I fall asleep under a tree to the hypnotic crash of the waves – one of life’s great pleasures. I’m glad nobody is around, because I wake up drooling like a labrador.
Occasionally, you come across a slice of Aotearoa that’s so good you almost don’t want to write about it. I said almost because there’s no real threat that this place will be overrun with tourists. There is no major airport nearby or cruise ship terminal that offloads its passengers. There is only one road into this little paradise, a long and windy drive over the mighty Ta¯ kaka Hill. Over the hill is a pot of gold in the tourism sense – welcome to Golden Bay/Mohua.
Where to hide away
Tucked away in the hills above Wainui Bay, one of Golden Bay’s many micro bays, is a series of ecoretreats nestled in native bush, known as Golden Bay Hideaway. In a region of such beauty, it seems odd to be talking about accommodation first.
But, our state-of-the-art eco-hut is a bargain. If this were in Auckland, it’d be pushing $700 a night. But here, if you visit during the low season, it’ll only set you back $165. There is nothing quite like fantastic accommodation, at a great price, to get me excited about visiting a place.
Our hut, known as the Little Greenie, has sweeping views of the coast through floor-to-ceiling glass walls, and an outdoor bathtub. But, the most remarkable thing isn’t immediately obvious. This is one of the country’s top eco-homes, rated nine stars, which means it’s almost completely selfsustaining.
Solar power heats everything, including the floors. Advanced sliding doors preserve energy by sealing the house, and even the walls are made from special bricks that absorb the heat, meaning the retreat normally sits at a constant 19 degrees.
There is also an advanced odourless composting toilet. The house is an engineering masterpiece, which powers itself in a silent carbonless symphony while you’re out lying in the sun.
The retreat has four other intriguing escapes scattered through the bush. The Tiny Greenie is an impressive tiny house, with two queen beds on different levels. The Hippy House harks back 20 years when some of the region’s colourful characters started building an elaborate place to call home. It’s been restored, and looks like a miniature mansion, with rooms on multiple levels.
It costs $395 a night for six people, which works out to $65 each. Another bargain.
If you’re after more of an adventure, the lovingly restored house truck is ideal for couples.
Venture out
The retreats at Golden Bay Hideaway are the kind of places you won’t want to leave in a hurry. Between lounging, eating, reading, and falling asleep in the sun, your days are delightfully blissful.
If you do find yourself getting a little restless, the region has no shortage of beauty to discover. You’ll want to start with one of the many bays that line the coast, which are often empty. The beaches are relatively close to the Tasman Sea and Cook Strait, which are both known for extreme weather, but these bays have a 25-kilometre guardian angel: Farewell Spit. It’s an enormous protective arm that arches into the sea, preventing big swells from making their way into the bay.
Much more than sand
Farewell Spit is one of the longest, and most ecologically important sand spits anywhere in the world. One side faces the treacherous and windswept Tasman Sea and, on the other side, you’ll find the protected and calm waters of Golden Bay. This dynamic gives the enormous 25-kilometre stretch of sand two distinct personalities.
Tens of thousands of seabirds can be found at the spit, including thousands of godwits that fly
there each summer on an enormous journey from Alaska. It’s also a moulting ground for 12,000 black swans.
Only a small part of the reserve is open to the public, so the best way to explore it is with
Farewell Spit Tours, which has a permit to enter. The 61⁄2-hour trip takes you to the lighthouse right at the end, where seals bask on the rocks. On the way, you’ll pass fascinating seabirds, lunar-like landscapes, and you can even spot fossilised worms in the rock of ancient cliffs.
Clearest waters in the world
The region is home to an underwater Garden of Eden: Te Waikoropupu¯ Springs.
The sacred spring pumps out 14,000 litres of pristine water each second from an elaborate network of limestone under the valley. It’s also a place of great significance to local Ma¯ ori. The waters represent the lifeblood of Papatu¯ a¯ nuku (Earth Mother) and the tears of Rangi-nui (Sky Father). Because of the cultural significance, and to protect the outstanding purity, you can’t touch the water.
The springs are reached on a scenic 45-minute loop walk, which has a viewing platform out over the water. This gives you a chance to marvel at the visibility – measured to be 63 metres underwater. This site is one of the great natural wonders of New Zealand, and should be on every Kiwi’s bucket list.
Explore tiny towns
Golden Bay is blessed with a series of vibrant towns that are too good to miss. Ta¯ kaka has some excellent cafes, with a particular focus on healthy wholefoods. After a guilt-free lunch, balance that at Choco Loco, the town’s award-winning chocolate shop.
Further along the coast in Collingwood is an old courthouse that dates back to 1901. Today, it’s known as the Courthouse Cafe, and the only miscarriage of justice is not stopping; the food is excellent.
In between Ta¯ kaka and Collingwood is another hidden gem: Onekaka, where The Mussel Inn is the main attraction – serving craft beer, great food and, of course, plenty of mussels.
A walk to remember
Golden Bay is the lesser-known access point to the Abel Tasman National Park. Most people head to the entrance near Motueka, but ask any Golden Bay local, and they will all tell you their side of the track is by far the most beautiful.
The Wainui end of Abel Tasman is near the Golden Bay Hideaway, meaning you can explore some of the track’s secluded bays on a day hike. If you’re after something more leisurely, a visit to Wainui Falls takes just over an hour return, and
rewards you with a stunning vista of the largest waterfall in the bay.
The Grove Scenic Reserve is also well worth the effort, especially for kids. This 40-minute walk weaves through enormous limestone blocks, lined with nı¯kau palms, and feels like you’re walking through a movie set.
The writer’s trip was supported by Nelson Tasman NZ. See: nelsontasman.nz.
Brook Sabin and Radha Engling are travelling the length of New Zealand on a Stuff Travel nationwide road trip in a new Hyundai Kona Electric. The vehicle has 449km of real-world range on a single charge. For more information, visit hyundai.co.nz/kona-electric.