Bay watch
There’s more to the relaxed atmosphere of Byron Bay than crystals and new-age healers, Kate Mead discovers.
BYRON BAY, in the balmy far north of New South Wales, covers all bases for tourists. It’s easy to get to (about an hour’s drive from Gold Coast airport), there are countless places to eat and an array of activities that cater to all desires, from lazing on the beach to swinging from a trapeze.
Famous first in the 1960s for its surf, then in the 70s as the hippie town where scores of Aussies and a few internationals went to turn on, tune in and drop out, Byron Bay’s atmosphere is all about relaxing and having a good time. That low-key, feelgood vibe is everywhere and, if crystals and new-age healers aren’t your thing, you can find your own kind of bliss at one of the town’s exclusive resorts or restaurants.
You can’t go wrong with a break at Byron and you’ll come away with a new favourite destination. Here are some top picks for what to do for a stay at the bay. Mavis’s Kitchen Mavis’s Kitchen, on the outskirts of Byron Bay, makes for a memorable visit. The cafe sits on 10 hectares overlooking the Mt Warning volcano and plenty of greenery, but arguably the best view is its biodynamic organic garden. The lettuce and pears you munch on for lunch will have been gathered from the garden moments earlier by the chefs. The kitchen garden is a rich bounty, home to herbs, kale, ginger, lime trees, peach trees, ruby grapefruit, okra and finger limes, a native citrus also known as citrus caviar.
Due to the seasonality of ingredients, the menu is everchanging. My vegetable tart features pear, pumpkin, courgette, beetroot, capsicum and feta, nested on delicate, crepey pastry, with edible flowers on top.
Should you wish to linger longer, you can stay in one of the luxurious cabins. One, an old dairy, has been converted into a spacious suite; the former creamery now a bedroom. 64 Mount Warning Rd, Uki; maviseskitchen.com.au Liliana’s Cafe Housed in the old Possum Creek School, owners Joanne and Greg have tastefully restored this property while keeping its history alive. Before opening in February last year, Joanne and Greg visited Sydney Archives to fossick for some memorable additions. One interesting detail is the coasters, all different with scrawled notes from the former schoolteachers. On mine, a teacher is writing a request for sheep dip. The found objects include ink bottles that sat atop tables, some with screw caps, others with cork tops depending on the school year they were used.
Liliana’s is memorable not only for the historical remnants but for the lovely rural setting and delicious food.
Lunch for me is a deconstructed caprese salad, with the tomato split into thirds and bocconcini and basil sandwiched between.
A pastry chef works on site which explains the sumptuous dessert menu.
I order the raspberry eclair, one of Liliana’s specialties. It is devilishly good with jam syrup, raspberry custard and patisserie cream. 471 Friday Hut Rd, Possum outdoors. Surfers and hillclimbing locals pop in and chat to staff before leaving with a coffee clutched in their hands.
The menu reflects the seasonality of Byron Bay, with fresh ingredients and simple dishes. I can’t go past the sourdough bruschetta with avocado, Cooper’s Shoot tomatoes and drizzled swirls of vinaigrette. 1 Brooke Drive, Byron Bay; thepasscafe.com.au The Junction The Junction is a stylish restaurant in one of Byron Bay’s oldest buildings. Over the years it has flirted with various identities, including its original life as a bakery, and staff have reignited a tradition from 15 years ago: Hosting martini lounge nights.
The menu is unpretentious and delicious and nearly all of it – 95 per cent, it’s claimed – made on site. Offerings include breakfast, lunch and dinner, along with delicious share plates like the BBQ Casino hanger steak with chimmichurri sauce, and white beans with tahini sauce, roast garlic and lemon. Marvell St, Byron Bay; the junctionbyronbay.com.au The Byron Beach Cafe At this classic beachy cafe, the shucked oysters on shaved ice with forum cabernet sauvignon vinegar.
The cafe recently won a silver award in the NSW Tourism Awards for best tourism restaurant and catering service. Clarke’s Beach, Lawson St; byronbeachcafe.com.au