Breeze into Wellington
Leave the car at your hotel or better still, ditch it altogether. Catherine Best believes our capital city is best explored on foot.
Why?
The capital is a striking harbour city that deserves more than the flying visit bestowed by many as they make their way overland to the South Island. Often described as a mini Melbourne with its laneways, Wellington offers a thriving coffee and craft brewery scene, and is an incubator for local artisans. It can be horrendously windy, but the national adage holds true: You can’t beat Wellington on a good day.
Visit
The national museum Te Papa (tepapa.govt.nz) provides an excellent introduction to New Zealand history and culture, and the Gallipoli exhibition – brought to life with giant life-like sculptures made by the Weta Workshop – is not to be missed.
For sweeping views, ride the funicular (wellington cablecar.co.nz) to Kelburn and meander through the Botanic Garden back to the city centre, or drive to Mount Victoria, a 196-metre lookout just east of the CBD. On a good day, the bayside walk to picturesque Oriental Bay is a delight. A little further afield, take the short scenic drive around the Miramar peninsula to Seatoun, to explore fancy neighbourhoods and old coastal war batteries.
Eat
Wellington is a city that can be explored via the glass and its gastronomy. Floriditas in Cuba St offers a scrumptious brunch and a counter laden with house-baked goods (floriditas.co.nz ), while Leeds Street Bakery (leeds stbakery.co.nz ) is famous for its salted caramel cookies and coffee, courtesy of Red Rabbit Coffee Co next door. In this artisanal enclave you will also find the tempting Wellington Chocolate Factory (wcf.co.nz), and handmade soda producer Six Barrel Soda Co (sixbarrelsoda.co.nz). The Garage Project is an experimental craft brewery with eight brews on tap (garageproject.co.nz), while for dinner you can’t beat Charley Noble, a colossal dining hall near the waterfront with wood-fired fare (charleynoble.co.nz).
Look
With pastel weatherboards clinging to the hills, a big-town vibe, and a glistening harbour, Wellington is a picture-postcard city. On the southwest tip of the North Island, it’s the launch pad for the three-hour ferry trip to Picton, and thus a popular transit city. The Cook Strait is notoriously blustery, and the winds funnelled through this channel are what give Wellington its moniker ‘‘the Windy City’’.
Must
The Lord of the Rings is spruiked unashamedly, and at Weta Cave (wetaworkshop.com), in the coastal suburb of Miramar, you can explore the creative genius behind the blockbusters’ most famous characters. On a fascinating 45-minute tour of the Weta Workshop studio (cofounded by director Sir Peter Jackson), come face to face with orcs and formidable villain Sauron. The workshop has been involved in more than 200 film productions around the world.
Sleep
The Museum Art Hotel is a quirky, boutique find ideally located on the waterfront, opposite Te Papa.
Recently acquired by the QT Hotels group, the property is an attraction in its own right and features more than 150 artworks amassed by former owner Chris Parkin.
There’s a limited-edition MV Agusta motorbike in the lobby, and a gleaming bull made from vintage tins of corned beef. Superior king rooms start at $249 (museumhotel.co.nz).
Tip
Leave the car at your hotel or ditch it altogether: Wellington is a city best explored on foot. Stay central and you can comfortably navigate the whole city by pounding the pavements.
Not only will you find hidden treasures down the city’s many laneways but you’ll also avoid the confusing network of one-way streets.