Magical Melbourne
Great coffee and so much more
Better thought of as the trendy older sister to beach-hopping Sydney, the Victorian city of Melbourne has garnered a reputation for delivering on both the culinary and cultural front.
As sun-seekers look to Europe to chase warm and balmy summer nights, Melbourne is a city that suits the cold.
The city’s charm lies in her sprawled and varied cultural offerings. Although you’re never too far away from the department store juggernauts, it’s the hole-inthe-wall fashion boutiques, worldclass eateries and hidden treasure troves down forgotten cobblestone lanes that are really worth the detour.
1. Yogi’s choice
Much like the now hipster-dominated Los Angeles, Melbourne is on the wellness wagon. Nestled in and around the city fringe, you’ll be spoiled for choice with boutique yoga studios. In the past five years, the rise of the ‘‘downward dog’’ appears to have quadrupled in Victoria. Smaller-scale studios such as Yoga 213 in Richmond and Humming Puppy in South Yarra stand out for their cosy, intimate surrounds. Humming Puppy transmits tiny frequencies beneath the studio floor so the room quite literally hums with good vibes. The classes vary in size and structure, depending on what you’re looking for.
Yoga 213 in Richmond offers ‘‘hip-hop’’ Vinyasa classes that play beats while you practise. The early-morning classes are a little more mellow, so if you’re heading along in the hopes of hearing the complete backlog of Kendrick Lamar, best choose an evening session. The studio greets you with a sprawling oil painting of Biggie Smalls and the general vibe here is a prime example of the surge in ‘‘Bro-ga’’ or men getting into yoga.
Whether you’re just starting out or you’ve single-handedly mastered the headstand, yoga during winter is well worth a go and will warm you up like nothing else.
For more see hummingpuppy.com and yoga213.com.au.
2. Walk with dinosaurs at the Melbourne Museum
Inspired by the popular film franchise, Jurassic World will delight the entire family – not just the resident dinosaur fanatic. Using ground-breaking animatronics, Melbourne-based Creature Technology Company (Walking with Dinosaurs, How to Train Your Dragon – The Arena Spectacular) teamed with Imagine Exhibitions to create an interactive experience with the help of renowned palaeontologist, Jack Horner.
This multi-room exhibition aims to ‘‘strike the right balance between informative and interactive’’ by providing as much visual excitement for movie buffs as it does for those with a wealth of knowledge about creatures of the prehistoric world.
Since it opened in March the exhibition has exceeded expectation and has successfully become one of the Melbourne Museum’s most popular to date. This travelling dino spectacular features true-to-size dinosaurs that blink, breathe, heave and even roar. At a whopping 12 metres high, expect to be left speechless by the hungry and disgruntled car-flipping T-Rex. The exhibition features original props from the Universal Pictures film franchise.
Fact file: The Melbourne Museum’s Jurassic World can be visited after dark. Ticket prices vary from free admission to $37. The Exhibition premiered at Melbourne Museum on March 18 and will be on show until October. For more see museumvictoria.com.au.
3. Dinner and a show
Sitting on the cusp of the perfectly manicured Carlton Gardens is The Princess Theatre (marrinergroup.com.au). If you’re in the mood for an early-evening show, allow plenty of time to wade through the city’s traffic. Consider ditching the Uber or taxi for a tram. Perched right next door you’ll find The European, an Italian eatery with old-school Godfather charm that Melbourne is famed for.
The European houses cosy tables, a warm and inviting atmosphere, and kitchen-to-table service that reaffirms Melbournites know their Italian food better than most. This classic eatery has nailed the art of traditional shared plates – be sure to try the warm brioche and dark liver parfait – and strikes the perfect balance for those looking for a vibrant yet intimate night out. Fact file: Be sure to let the front of house know you’re heading to a show when securing your reservation, and the staff will ensure your service is swift and you’re seated in the theatre ahead of the opening act. For more see theeuropean.com.au.
4. Be pampered in Daylesford
Between the day-to-day grind of inner-city living, it’s easy to forget that Victoria’s wellbeing region, Daylesford, is a mere hour-and-a-half’s drive out of the city. According to my guide, Daylesford is a popular escape among Melbournites looking for a not-too-far-away day trip or indulgent weekend away. Upon arrival, you can see why this little township is dubbed famous for its ‘‘Shiatsu massage and antiques’’. Spend the afternoon in the comfortable surrounds of Lake House, famed for its award-winning culinary offerings as much as its Salus Spa. Lake House hotel offers the Hamptons of luxury escapism.
Salus spa’s Elemis beauty and body treatments include the full body salt and lime scrub that’s a favourite among East Day Spa customers. This lengthy 90-minute full body treatment includes a traditional hot stone massage, essential oils and dry brushing exfoliation. If you’re looking for a spa to pamper and ultimately relax, Salus should be on your bucket list. The health benefits of salt scrubs are best reaped over winter, when skin is dehydrated, dry and in desperate need of a little TLC.
Salt traditionally draws out toxins so if you’re fighting off the dregs of a cold or flu then your body (and soul) will certainly thank you for it.
Fact file: Be sure to make a pitstop at the local hammam in nearby Hepburn Springs, The Hepburn Bathhouse & Spa hepburnbathhouse1px.rtrk.com.au. Adult entry rates start at $35.60, with family passes from $113. Weekend rates apply. It’s mind-blowing to think that in a city like Melbourne anybody would queue for two hours to get a table. Apparently if the food is good enough, they will. Locals reckon the average wait time at the famed Chin Chin is an hour-plus, on any given night of the week. This Asian-fusion eatery embraces a walk-in culture and is the brain child of the hospitality entrepeneurs at the Lucas Group, the team behind Melbourne’s Kong BBQ and Baby Pizza.
Boasting a menu that’s designed to share and kitchen-to-table service that’s a well-oiled machine, don’t forget your appetite. Try the pork roll ups or mouth-watering butter chicken, all in generous portions, Chin Chin is ideal for larger parties. Downstairs, the neon-lit cocktail bar keeps the punters happy with spicy bourbon cocktails and dry iced ginger-spiked aperitifs. Follow the glowing signage downstairs to the moody Go Go bar beneath the restaurant; it’s a prime perch while you’re waiting on your table.
Fact file: The menu here has been designed to share. If you can’t decide on dishes, consider the ‘‘Just Feed Me’’ option and trust the chef, for $72 a person. See chinchinrestaurant.com.au.
6. Wander down Hosier Lane
Take a wander down Flinders St in the central city to Hosier Lane, or "Possier Lane’’ as the locals call it. This tourist hot bed is a popular inner-city shortcut because of its brightly coloured street art, murals and coffee spots. Pay it forward initiatives are big here: each cup of coffee you buy gives you the option to purchase another for the next lucky visitor. Beer crates scattered around the lane double as bar stools if you need to rest your weary feet between shopping stints on Little Collins St.
7. You talkin’ to me?
The Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI) has long-commanded the attention of local and travelling culture vultures. Over the next few months, the centre will play host to the Scorsese exhibition: a multiroom exploration of the film director’s incredible body of work, visual storyboards and general fixation with actors Robert De Niro and Leo DiCaprio.
The exhibition is extensive, equipped with Post-it notes from Scorsese’s own workbook and archives. Prepare to leave with a mental run-list of must-watch IMDb classics. The original boxing gloves donned by De Niro in 1980’s Raging Bull and Sharon Stone’s glittering cocktail dress from the 1995 film set of Casino are a stand-out, while the original script from Goodfellas – finished with the director’s own personal annotations – give the exhibition some serious street cred.
Set aside a good few hours to work your way around the exhibition and be sure to exit through the gift shop; the merchandise here is too good to ignore.
Fact file:
Entry fees into the exhibition vary from $18-$26. For exhibition details, see acmi.net.au.
8. Discover the hidden gems on Flinders Lane
If you’ve ventured to Melbourne for a rapid-fire shopping spree, you won’t be disappointed. It may be cold, but rug up and indulge in a bit of window shopping.
Chapel St may have garnered its reputation for housing the most boutiques and flagship stores, namely H&M, American Apparel and Zara, however the true fashionista is Flinders Lane. Nestled down a narrow flight of stairs on Flinders you’ll discover Christine’s (christineaccessories.com), a shoe box-sized designer mecca that would turn even Carrie Bradshaw green with envy.
This French treasure trove houses designer pieces from the house of Lanvin, Chloe, Celine, Marc Jacobs and Maison Michel. Accessories hold pride of place in the centre of the basement while bejewelled broches and perfume dispensers glitter from the counter. In an age where the internet takes you ‘‘’straight to cart’’ Christine’s pays homage to an era where window shopping was the only kind of cardio.
9. Travel by tram
Any true Melbournite will tell you that on a cold, wet, winter’s night in peak-hour traffic, trying to get around the city by car is near impossible. Thankfully, there’s the tram. In and around the CBD the tram is free. If you’re heading to the trendy outer suburbs for dinner, catch the 96 tram to South Yarra, which stops at all of the central stops, including the lengthy Bourke St near the David Jones department store; it’s a great way to familiarise yourself with the city.
10. Trust the chef at Cutler & Co
Foodie offerings in a city like this are a dime a dozen, but Cutler & Co in South Yarra offers a relaxed dining experience in the heart of one of Melbourne’s hippest suburbs. The contemporary European menu features a modern kitchen in the centre of the loft-style space, offering diners a kitchen-to-table intimacy and first-hand look at food prep from start to finish.
Dining alone? The front of house will likely seat you at the bar. If you’re with a larger party, the stylish surrounds and alcoves offer perfect sprawling tables. The Menu Selection offers ‘‘the best dishes to come out of the kitchen’’ with the added option of wine matching.
Before any multi-course culinary endeavour or degustation, ask your waiter how much food we’re talking. The sashimi kingfish with cultured cream, Western Australia marron and the Robbins Island wagyu will stick with you long after you’re done and dusted with dessert. Fact file: See cutlerandco.com.au. The writer travelled courtesy of Tourism Victoria.