Fun in the passenger seat What inspired your move, and how long have you been there?
Marjory Woodfield tells us what life is like for a Kiwi woman living in Saudi Arabia.
I’m originally from Christchurch. I’ve been living in Riyadh in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia for almost seven years. I suppose I was inspired by a sense of excitement. I’ve lived in many other countries but I knew Saudi Arabia was going to be quite unlike anywhere else I’d been.
What do you do there?
I came to join my husband who was already working there. When I arrived, I took up a teaching position at an international school.
What are the greatest advantages to living there?
Unique cultural experiences. I remember a chance meeting with a Bedouin in the desert. He wanted us to stop so he could show us his hawk and demonstrate his falconry skills. Seeing his bird sweeping against the blue sky and yellow desert is something I’ll never forget.
The cost of living is generally lower and petrol costs less than water ... Marjory Woodfield
Disadvantages?
Visa restrictions mean friends travelling in the area cannot easily get into the country. This is a shame as there’s so much here that is remarkable, from collecting fossils in the desert, to exploring the ancient Nabatean city of Madain Saleh.
How expensive is it compared to NZ? How much is a beer?
The cost of living is generally lower. Petrol costs less than water. We have excellent New Zealand lamb and beef, which I have discovered is no more expensive than if I was buying it from a supermarket in Christchurch! Housing is expensive, however. As for beer, Saudi Arabia is a very conservative Muslim culture so alcohol, like pork, is strictly forbidden.
What do you do in your spare time?
We live in a Western compound, which is essentially a gated community. We have excellent facilities: swimming pools, a gym, recreation centre, sauna, jacuzzi, restaurant, and shops. So when it’s hot, and in Saudi the summer temperatures can hit 50 degrees, a lot of time is spent by the pool. At the weekend we often travel into the desert – sometimes to camp overnight, and sometimes just to visit a particular site or landmark.
What’s the local delicacy, and would you recommend eating it?
I think I would describe the food here as Middle East fusion. It’s all delicious, from simple hummus, chicken rice, and shawarma to mouth-watering desserts such as kunafa and Om Ali. We often eat out, because the food is so good and very inexpensive.
What’s the shopping like?
I love visiting the Deira Souk, or market, in the older part of Riyadh. The crumbling adobe mud buildings nearby are an interesting insight into what the whole of Riyadh must once had looked like. Riyadh is also a city of state-of-the-art malls. These are elegant chrome, marble, and glass edifices with all the latest designer shops. My friends and I often visit the Princess Souk in southern Riyadh. This is where dresses worn by Saudi princesses often end up, most having been worn only once, at dirt-cheap prices.
Best after-dark activity?
Again, being a strict Muslim country, there is no nightlife here. Best evening activity is shopping and eating out.
Best time of year to visit?
Winter is beautiful here, so any time between October and May.
What are the top three things you recommend for visitors?
A trip to the desert, if possible overnight; the starry night skies are spectacular. A camel ride. And a quick trip to Jeddah to dive or snorkel in the Red Sea. The water is tepid and the coral and sea life out of this world.
Besides family and friends, what do you miss most about home?
Personal freedom. Women are not allowed to drive in Saudi Arabia, and I must wear an abaya whenever out of the compound.
For Kiwis looking to move there, which industries are seeking fresh talent?
The international schools are always looking for teachers. Enterprises like the new metro employs expats with relevant specialist skills. Also medical professionals: doctors, nurses, and physiotherapists.
If you know an expat who wants to share inside knowledge of their home away from home, email travel@stuff.co.nz with Expat in the subject line.