The setting
Heritage Christchurch is located in Cathedral Square, right across from the remains of the ChristChurch Cathedral, which came crumbling down in the February 2011 earthquake. It’s a sobering sight, a stark reminder of how much the city has changed, and how far there is still to go. From this vantage point, it would be easy to dwell on the past. But also within viewing distance of the hotel is a spectacular mural of a young woman by Australian street artist RONE. Walk a little bit further, and you’ll find a wall covered in penguins. Around the corner, a coin-operated outdoor dance floor. A secret urban garden.
They’re examples of the life and colour that can still be found in the post-quake central city, if you take the time to look.
The space
The hotel is housed in the Old Government Building, which opened in 1913. Joseph Clarkson Maddison, one of the leading architects of the era, was commissioned to design a magnificent building that would allow Christchurch to puff out its chest, celebrating its arrival as a major regional city.
But when the last government department moved out in 1989, the building was left empty and facing a wrecking ball. After public rallies and petitions to save it, the building was purchased by the Christchurch City Council, which decided it would be best suited for a hotel.
In 1995, the council sold the building to Heritage Hotels and a property development firm, under two strict conditions: its precious architectural elements had to be maintained, and extensive earthquake strengthening had to be undertaken.
It was a proviso that proved to be prophetic. Miraculously, the hotel survived the February 22, 2011, earthquake with just minor structural damage.
Stuck behind the red zone cordons, the hotel wasn’t able to reopen until September 2013 – exactly 100 years after the building first opened its doors.
The kit
She’s a grand old dame, with wide hallways, high ceilings, and staircases like something out of Downton Abbey. There’s also a fully-equipped gym, a lap pool, sauna, and spa pool. I’m on a solo adventure, and have been put up in a one-bedroom suite, which at 63 square metres is a very generous size. It consists of a full kitchen with dishwasher, microwave and oven, a dining table, and lounge. You head upstairs to the mezzanine floor, which contains a bedroom, bathroom, and laundry facilities.
The bathroom has a shower over a bath, and a lovely selection of green tea-scented Manuka Spa toiletries. There’s plenty of wardrobe space, ideal for business travellers spending a bit longer in the city.
Comfort factor
Having my own mezzanine floor is a real treat – there’s something incredibly luxurious about being able to retire upstairs, and falling on to a marshmallow-soft bed. The setup is elegant but homely, like staying at your favourite posh auntie’s house.
Food
You can dine at the hotel restaurant, Maddison’s (named after the building’s architect), or grab a drink at the O.G.B, a speakeasy-style bar and cafe at the hotel’s side entrance. This little hipster gem has a steady stream of customers, no matter what time of day I walk past.
The hotel is a short walk from New Regent St, with its pretty pastelcoloured buildings and cute cafes. For dinner on Saturday night, I head to Casa Publica (casapublica.co.nz), a South American-style bar and restaurant. It’s best known for its extensive rum selection, and the fresh guacamole prepared at the table. I’m a nervous solo diner, but it turns out to be perfect – dark and demure, with lots of cosy nooks and crannies.
The next night, I venture out to the Victoria St entertainment precinct. It’s not exactly pumping on a Sunday (except for The Bog Irish Bar, which is overflowing). But you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to eats, with favourites like Tequila Mockingbird (tequilamockingbird.co.nz), Chinwag Eathai (chinwageathai.co.nz), and the Yamagen (yamagen.co.nz).
I end up in King of Snake (kingofsnake.co.nz), a sexy Asian fusion restaurant I’d heard great things about. It’s slick, and my chilli prawns pack a punch, but it’s probably one best enjoyed with a date – if only so you can get a few plates to share between you.
Worth stepping out for
Hop on the Christchurch Tram (tram.co.nz), to get your bearings. These beloved trams trundle their way past 17 stops, as the hard-case drivers provide a running commentary of the city’s changing landscape.
You might roll your eyes, but if you haven’t done it, Punting on the Avon (punting.co.nz) is a must. Gliding down the Avon River with the daffodils in bloom is achingly twee. You’ll spend the rest of the day with a goofy smile on your face.
The Botanic Gardens is a beautiful place to be on a sunny day, and brunch in the ilex Cafe, within the striking visitor centre, is a must. The cabinet selection of cakes and slices are to die for.
For shopping, it’s worth wandering through the vibrant Re:Start container mall (restart.org.nz). Another unique shopping experience is The Tannery (thetannery.co.nz) in Woolston. This 19th-century tannery site is home to more than 50 boutique shops, restaurants, bars, and a deluxe cinema.
The verdict
It was my first time in Christchurch since the red zone cordon was lifted and, even now, it’s a surreal feeling being in the CBD, surrounded by the empty shells of buildings. As a tourist, it’s a rare opportunity to see a city reinventing itself, knowing the next time you visit, it might be completely different. But there is comfort to be found in the familiar, and that’s exactly what Heritage Christchurch provides.
Getting there
Jetstar has daily flights from Auckland to Christchurch from $59, and Wellington to Christchurch from $49 (one-way, checked baggage not included). Visit jetstar.com.
Essentials
A night in a one-bedroom suite starts from $235, including free use of the onsite health club and lap pool. Visit heritagehotels.co.nz/hotels/heritagechristchurch.
The writer stayed courtesy of Heritage Hotels, with the support of Jetstar and Christchurch & Canterbury Tourism.