Hong Kong: An alternative guide
Scratch the surface and you’ll see a whole new side of Hong Kong,
If you’ve ever done a stopover holiday in Hong Kong, chances are you’ve already ticked off all of the big-name attractions. But look beyond the skyscrapers and neon lights, and you’ll find there’s plenty more to discover in this vibrant melting pot. Here are some of the best alternatives to the tourist traps.
Skip Dim Sum: Dine at Chungking Mansions
Maybe you don’t fancy queuing for hours to nibble on Michelin-starred pork buns at Tim Ho Wan. How about a curry at Chungking Mansions, that big old ramshackle highrise on Kowloon’s glittering Nathan Rd?
Don’t let its ‘‘ghetto’’ reputation put you off – Chungking Mansions is a mind-boggling labyrinth of cheap guesthouses, shops, money changers and restaurants, best known for providing the backdrop to Wong Karwai’s cinematic masterpiece, Chungking Express. It’s where you’ll find much of Hong Kong’s African, South Asian and Middle Eastern population, and accordingly, some of the city’s best ethnic eats. For deliciously authentic Indian curries, we recommend Khyber Pass on the seventh floor.
Skip the Ladies’ Market: Shop at PMQ
Let’s be honest – you’re never actually going to wear that ‘‘I love HK’’ T-shirt, hard-won after a marathon haggling session at the Ladies’ Market. Instead, make your way to the hipster paradise of PMQ, located in Central.
The site, which stands for ‘‘Police Married Quarters’’, was once a dormitory for Chinese rank and file police officers, and has been transformed into a creative hub, with a focus on local designers. There are clothing and accessories shops, vintage stores, art studios, and even cafes and restaurants. For quality but quirky souvenirs, be sure to check out Goods of Desire, aka G.O.D. You’ll find everything from luxury chopsticks to cheeky T-shirts emblazoned with Cantonese profanities.
Skip the Star Ferry: Ride a sampan
The famous Star Ferry might boast spectacular views as you zoom across Victoria Harbour, but for a more relaxing ride, take a slow cruise around Aberdeen in a sampan boat.
Located on the south coast of Hong Kong Island, Aberdeen was one of the first places the British came ashore in 1841. It is home to a colourful floating village, with about 5000 boat-dwellers living in the harbour, against a backdrop of towering apartment blocks. Enterprising old ladies in traditional wide-brimmed hats patrol the promenade, offering sampan tours for about $15. You’ll weave through floating restaurants, trawlers, junks and houseboats on this fascinating – if not a little voyeuristic – ride.
Skip The Peak: Go for a hike
It’s the city’s No 1 tourist destination, and for good reason. The views from the highest point on Hong Kong Island are nothing short of spectacular, day or night. Unfortunately, the sparkling cityscape is often blocked by thousands of selfie sticks.
Escape the madness by stepping onto one of Hong Kong’s many hiking trails. Believe it or not, this urban jungle is home to some of the best natural scenery you’ll find in Asia, with more than 40 per cent of land made up of nature reserves and parks. The Dragon’s Back on Hong Kong Island is one of the most popular trails, offering incredible coastal views. If you’re still craving that iconic skyscraper scene, try the Peak Circle Walk. The Lugard Rd lookout is even better than the Peak Tower.
Skip Disneyland: Go to Cheung Chau
Good things come in small packages, and while it might be tempting to spend a day enjoying all the thrills and spills of a theme park, you’ll find understated fun on the tiny island of Cheung Chau.
Located a short ferry ride from the Central Pier, this dumbbell-shaped island is best explored by bike, available for hire along the promenade. There’s plenty to see – like a coastal road named the ‘‘Mini Great Wall’’ after its big brother in the mainland, or the Cheung Po Tsai Cave, which was the hiding place of an infamous 18th-century pirate. The island also hosts an annual Bun Festival, which includes the construction of an enormous 18-metre tower made of buns.
Skip the Big Buddha: Go to the Chi Lin Nunnery
There’s a reason the giant bronze buddha on Lantau Island is holding his hand up. He’s trying to say, ‘‘stop, please, no more tourists’’. For a more zen experience, head to the serene Chi Lin Nunnery in the heart of Kowloon.
Start in the Nan Lian Garden, a tranquil oasis encircled by highrises, and make your way past ornamental water features, bonsai trees and artfully arranged rocks. There’s also a teahouse, and vegetarian restaurant within the grounds. Cross the road and you’ll reach the Buddhist monastery, the largest hand-made wooden structure in the world, built without the use of a single nail. In the Hall of Celestial Kings, you’ll find not just one – but five golden buddhas. Beat that, Big Buddha.
Skip high tea: Drink milk tea at a cha chaan teng
Avoid blowing the budget on a lavish afternoon tea at The Peninsula Hotel, and spend your pennies at a cha chaan teng, or Hong Kong-style cafe. These inexpensive eateries emerged after World War II, when local tastes were becoming more western.
Expect some interesting hybrids on the menu – like instant noodles with luncheon meat. The best thing to order, however, is Hong Kong-style milk tea, and the best place to get it is Lan Fong Yuen, a hole-in-the-wall located in Central. Open since 1953, the owners are said to have invented the beverage – which is nicknamed ‘‘silk stocking milk tea’’ because of the pantyhose-like contraption used to brew it. It’s sweet, smooth, and so much better than English Breakfast.
The writer travelled to Hong Kong courtesy of Cathay Pacific.
Look beyond the skyscrapers and neon lights, and you’ll find there’s plenty more to discover in this vibrant melting pot.