Sunday Star-Times

Ampersand, Oxford St, Paddington

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China Doll’s Asian fine fare is a little higher in expense, but it offers some of the best food in Sydney.

The modern cocktail menu features ingredient­s like yuzu, honey, Chinese five-spice and black sesame, while the Little China Girl is a sweet, strawberry­rose dream, with a not-so-dreamy price of NZ$19.80.

It has a vast main menu as well as small plates, and the friendly staff seem happy to order half-portions.

The popular, NZ$4.70-a-pop scallops are recommende­d - tender, melt in your mouth morsels with delicate, ginger flavours, you would be hard pressed finding scallops to beat these. The Shu Mai dumpling filling isn’t over-processed, with identifiab­le and tasty pieces of pork, prawn, scallop and shiitake (NZ$20.80 for four).

The fried tofu dish comes as crispy pillows of silky bean curd, with fivespice salt ticking all the flavour boxes. It could leave even the most carnivorou­s customer salivating (NZ$12.50).

The vibe was…

Upmarket, without being pretentiou­s. Sit outside for a sea breeze and stunning view of the city skyline.

If you go…

A winding staircase, mismatched furniture and wall-to-wall, ceiling-tofloor books make this place a magical, bookworm’s paradise.

There are cosy nooks and crannies to choose from, or a larger tables for sharing. It smells of old books, fresh flowers, and cooking breakfast. It seemed too early for the tempting risotto with pan-fried halloumi, spinach puree and cherry tomatoes.

So instead it was eggs on ciabatta (NZ$10.40) with extras - creamy, pan fried halloumi, peppery roasted tomato, and avocado - most of which cost NZ$4.20 each.

There are bacon and salmon options too. To call these eggs scrambled would be an injustice: they are expertly whipped with sunshine yellow folds like layers in a croissant. Top it off with a pretty-as-a-picture lavender cake and one of the eatery’s fresh, homemade juices of apple, celery, spinach and lemon. Great food, very reasonably priced, in a unique setting.

Peaceful, homely,

The vibe was…

quirky.

If you go…

Don’t pick the first table you see, go for a wander.

The Bach Eatery, King St, Newtown

Owned by a New Zealand couple, this cosy establishm­ent serves up smells, sights and sounds inspired by the Kiwi bach - a bach owned by an extremely talented chef, mind you. There’s an impressive selection of NZ wine and beer, but the berry-infused rum, lime, mint and L&P cocktail is a mix I will be borrowing this summer.

The paua arancini with Kaitaia Fire mayo (NZ$8.30) was a deliciousl­y mild and unique way to use the seafood, and the Thirlmere chicken liver pate, with sweet beetroot relish and toasted bread, was moreish. The pappardell­e is the eatery’s most celebrated dish, with wild mushroom ragout, a generous covering of parmesan snow, and a slow cooked egg atop with tongs to stir through (NZ$25).

Full to the brim, I ordered the dessert to-go, a decadent Jelly Tipinspire­d white chocolate mousse with a raspberry centre and coating of soft, milk chocolate.

The vibe was… If you go…

Homely, a taste of Kiwi hospitalit­y.

Take a moment to nosy around the New Zealand decor.

Three Blue Ducks, Dunning Avenue, Rosebery

This transforme­d industrial warehouse with exposed brick, hanging lights, and plants is a little further out out the city, 20 minutes or so. But it’s worth the glimpse into a Saturday lunch regular for Sydneyside­rs.

The free-range chicken wings with lemon and fermented chili sauce are very popular ($14) but warning - these huge wings come rustic-style with some feathers still intact. The seafood curry is a flavoursom­e bounty of fresh mussels, clams, salmon and white fish with brown rice and topped with fresh cucumber ribbons, herbs and chili (NZ$32.25). Another signature dish is the ‘‘charred occy’’ ($29.15) - thick, tender octopus tentacles with charred corn, jalapenos, mixed leaves and zesty grapefruit. There’s no skimping on portion sizes here.

Friendly, trendy, man-buns and beards aplenty.

Check out the surroundin­g designer homeware shops before heading back to the city.

The vibe was… If you go… More informatio­n

Visit Sydney.com.

Getting there

Air New Zealand flies direct to Sydney with seats to suit from Auckland, Wellington, Christchur­ch and Queenstown. See Airnewzeal­and.co.nz.

The writer travelled courtesy of Destinatio­n New South Wales.

 ?? HANNAH MCKEE/FAIRFAX NZ ?? The ginger and seasame scallops at China Doll can sell out quickly.
HANNAH MCKEE/FAIRFAX NZ The ginger and seasame scallops at China Doll can sell out quickly.

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