The setting
Set on the coastline between Westport and Greymouth, the community of Punakaiki lies on the edge of Paparoa National Park, 300 square kilometres of bush, river, coast and protected limestone karst (the famous Pancake Rocks being the star, but also soaring cliffs and a number of caves). Visually it’s breathtaking, there’s plenty to do and see, and despite a reputation for wet and moody weather (which we’re told is a longstanding and highly successful rumour started by locals to keep tourists away), the weather across the three days we were there was bright and sunny with just one afternoon of cloud and not a drop of rain.
The space
Set low against the landscape, sheltered from the elements, prying eyes and the main road, and just a (good) stone’s throw from a long stretch of sand and crashing waves, from the outside Seaside Takutai House resembles something between a contemporary marae and a cool information centre.
The inside is stunning, luxurious and very, very spacious, with a modern lodgy feel: wood panelling galore, polished concrete floors daubed with New Zealand wool rugs, a river stone feature wall complete with fireplace and a spectacular chef’s kitchen complete with all the bells and whistles and an enormous breakfast bar/island/dining bench.
While the size of the place takes our breath away, the little details are equally enchanting – New Zealand art and furnishings, bathrooms stocked with deliciously scented bespoke hand soap, shampoo and body wash, a heavy, hand-carved wooden front door and outside a fire pit just perfect for toasting marshmallows.
Comfort factor
High! The couple in our party complain of a too-firm bed but they’re used to a very soft mattress, and they have the ensuite so perhaps that balances things out.
My king bed is comfortable and the short walk down the hall to the main bathroom is more than made up for by its size (the shower alone would easily fit several, or a whole handful of sandy, salty kids if you have them) and level of luxury - heated lights in the ceiling and heated towel rails toting fluffy white towels.
Each room has heaters, there’s the fireplace, a shed full of cut wood and wool blankets galore, so you’d be cosy in winter, and in summer the ranch sliders can be thrown open as they have insect screens to keep the (many) sandflies out.
Food
There are no supermarkets or even a dairy in the area, and just a handful of eateries, so self-catering accommodation is an appealing option, especially once we’ve seen the fabulous kitchen and noted the barbecue on the balcony.
Breakfast (fresh fruit, free range eggs, bread rolls, butter and local honey) and snack (crackers, olives, cheese, salami) items can be preordered from Takutai’s great host Karen (who lives across the road and up the hill), as well as wine, but we’re more than happy bringing our own supplies, supplemented by a good feed of freshly caught whitebait from nearby Pororari River. Our second night we stroll up the hill to the Pancake Rocks cafe, which opens for dinner and drinks during the summer - huge handmade pizzas and bottles of West Coast Brewery beers in an almost marquee-like setting are perfect for a casual evening out. During the day they also do breakfasts, cabinet food, passable (just) coffee and very appropriately, pancakes, being directly across the road from the entrance to the main attractions themselves.
Worth stepping out for
First and foremost, it would be entirely remiss not to have a wander into the Pancake Rocks reserve, a 20-minute loop through the majestic stacked limestone formations and blowholes that filled in closer to an hour for us as we ooh-ed and aah-ed over the crashing waves, dramatic sea views, bursts of spray and ominous booming, getting very wet and amusing ourselves watching others wander unwittingly into the path of unexpected soakings.
Another experience unique to the area are the petrel colony tours, either at sunrise or sunset. Despite their soaring flight style, the large sea birds live and nest in burrows deep in the undergrowth, which requires them to basically drop from the sky, crashing through the scrub, to reach their evening destination.
Their flight muscles are also insufficient to launch themselves directly off the ground, which means they need launch pads such as tree stumps or cliff tops to get going in the morning - the gist of which is that either tour means some level of unusual nature drama.
There’s short or long bush walks, all high on breathtaking scenery - cliffs, caves, rivers etc - ask a local (if you can find one) or pop into the information centre (next to the cafe) to have someone flag one to suit.
Punakaiki Horse Treks’ stables are Takutai House’s neighbours, which, along with visions of galloping across the sand, inspired us to book a threehour trek, which had us hoofing it through a stunning limestone clifflined valley, splashing across rivers, stopping for tea and bikkies at a hut halfway before heading back along the beach in front of our accommodation.
Sore bottoms aside, it’s a must for horse-lovers and a different way to see some of the backcountry.
A drive along the coastline is also an easy reward in either direction. We went south to Greymouth which has a welcoming vista of wide river and dramatic bridge - utterly marred by a supersized Warehouse.
A three-hour horse trek had us hoofing it through a stunning limestone cliff-lined valley, splashing across rivers, stopping for tea and bikkies at a hut halfway before heading back along the beach...
The verdict
We found our two-night stay the perfect mix of rest and recreation, though all agreed we could have done with ‘‘just one more night’’.
Getting there
It’s a three-and-a-half hour drive from Nelson following the Buller River through the Buller Gorge, or four hours’ drive from Christchurch through Arthur’s Pass.
Sounds Air runs daily flights from Wellington to Westport, about 45 minutes from Punakaiki.
Essentials
Seaside Takutai House is $475 per night for one to two people, $50.00 extra person/child thereafter. Minimum two-night stay. Visit pancake-rocks.co.nz/punakaikiaccommodation/takutai-house for more information.
The writer stayed courtesy of Seaside Takutai House.