The setting
Tutukaka, on Northland’s east coast, lies between Whananaki to its north and Whangarei Heads to its south. Driving along State Highway 1, you’ll spot roadside signs warning of kiwi in the area. The weekend we visited, three of the birds were released into the wild at Tawapou Coastal Natives.
Over the hill from the marina, Matapouri, Sandy, Whale and Woolleys Bays offer opportunities to explore rock pools and enjoy the beaches’ white and black sands.
The space
The palm-lined marina is dominated by the Quality Hotel Oceans resort. The 25-bedroom establishment has a creamy exterior accented with dark wood and strips of colour that warrants comparisons with a giant Licorice Allsort, in the best possible way.
The hotel complex has a tropical vibe, with gift shops, art galleries, a general store, icecream parlour and restaurant among the establishments along the street front.
The kit
Our twin room is spacious, with a lounge area beside the comfy single beds to take in views of the marina and the ocean beyond. The en suite bathroom includes a bath, though guests are advised to conserve water when possible.
There is no minibar but Oceans Restaurant and Bar on the ground floor more than catered to our needs, and there was room service if we’d gotten desperate. The hotel has a pool on its first floor, with barbecue facilities which are free for guests to use.
Comfort factor
The hotel is one of few establishments along the esplanade – the Dive! Tutukaka headquarters is five minutes’ walk down the road, as are other dining options. You’ll feel safe wandering the streets after dark, coming home to a cosy room that lacks the clinical feel of larger hotels.
Food
Lunch and dinner options are limited in Tutukaka, but a lack of competition hasn’t impacted the quality of what’s on offer.
Five minutes’ drive south of the marina is the village of Ngunguru, where we found finger-licking fish ‘n’ chips at Ngunguru Takeaways (and they’ll cook your catch up for $1.50 a fillet).
A short meander up the road from the hotel takes you to Marina Pizza Bar & Grill, where our one disappointment was that Sailfish Cove – Tutukaka’s first and only winery – doesn’t feature on the wine list.
After a day on the water, we were glad for a steaming pot of briny mussels prepared classically with white wine and onions. We also ordered a Rocky Bay pizza – a faintly spicy number topped with shrimp, mussels, parmesan and mozzarella. Our candlelit dinner concluded with cheesecake and lemon tart – among the best you’ll find anywhere.
The restaurant – a plastic marquee on the boardwalk – was charming at dusk. Lights reflected off the darkening water and there was occasional movement from boaties settling in for the evening on their vessels.
It’s worth taking a stroll along the boardwalk after dinner – not least for an obligatory selfie with the timeworn sign at the harbour entrance. On the way back to the hotel, stop at Schnappa Rock for a night cap – there’s a well-stocked bar with a decent selection of whiskies, and no doubt a boatie or two present to drink to your good health.
While you are there
Sailfish Cove Winery offers a picturesque setting for sundowners: the vineyard sits atop a hill overlooking the world famous Poor Knights Islands. It’s a boutique operation, run from Gay Corkin and Harvie Ferguson’s garage. A tour is a delightfully casual affair – you’ll be shown around barefoot, with a chance to meet their herd of alpacas, and sample fine vintages that have limited distribution throughout Tutukaka and Whangarei. There’s a ‘‘BBQ Red Shiraz’’, designed to be consumed cold, which is particularly worth investigating. You’ll leave feeling like part of the family.
The area around Tutukaka features a number of walking trails. A grassy track along the headlands, where local school kids have planted native trees, eventually morphs into a stony path to Kukutauwhao Island, where a lighthouse and coastal views await your efforts. The walk from the car park, 600m north past Marina Rd, takes about one hour return.
Worth stepping out for
The Poor Knights Islands, 23km off the coast, have been named among the top diving spots in the world. It’s one of few places where visitors can spot a fur seal and a green turtle on the same day, as well as pass through the largest marine arch in the Southern Hemisphere, and venture inside the world’s largest sea cave.
For those whose sea legs are a tad wobbly, Dive! Tutukaka offers a ’’Perfect Day’’ experience for nondivers, which combines sight-seeing, kayaking, paddle boarding, cave explorations, snorkelling and swimming. See aperfectday.co.nz.
You’ll pay $189 per adult, and $95 per child aged 15 years and under. The fee includes lunch and afternoon tea. Wetsuit hire is an extra $10. Browse other dive charter options at diving.co.nz.
The verdict
Tutukaka was a wonderful introduction to Northland’s east coast. The village’s proximity to some of New Zealand’s most precious natural assets is the drawcard, but the friendly folk and the tranquil landscape leave an equally lasting impression.
Getting there
Tutukaka is about two and a half hour’s drive north of Auckland, roadworks notwithstanding. Be sure to stop at Puhoi Valley Cafe and Cheese Store. Platters of Puhoi’s famous fromage cost $18.50, $35 or $48.50 according to cheese weight. There are 10 divine rounds to choose from.
Another dinky destination worth turning off the highway for is McLeod’s Pizza Barn in Waipu. The craft brewery has a glorious array of fresh beers on tap, with guest collaborations and limited runs keeping the offerings interesting.
Whether you’re ducking in for a pit stop or lingering over a lazy meal in the sun, you’ll want to sample McLeod’s famous Traders Scotch Ale, brewed with a hint of spicy horopito. It’s tempting to have a liquid lunch, but we’d highly recommend the pizzas – there’s a huge range of toppings to choose from.
Essentials
A double room with a marina view costs $189 per night, and there are discounts for booking in advance. There is a double room with disability access that can be booked. For further information, see oceansresorthotel.co.nz.
The writer travelled courtesy of Quality Hotel Oceans Tutukaka.