AtoZof Yasawa Islands guide to cruising Fiji’s remote group.
Felicity Reid’s
Cruise away from the betterknown holiday spots and you will discover the ‘‘real’’ Fiji in the Yasawa Islands. The group of grass-covered islands, which form the western border of the country, are home to many traditional villages and untouched beaches.
A is for Anchorage
You will spend every night anchored off a different island. With no overnight cruising, the Blue Lagoon’s Fiji Princess drops anchor each day before moving on in the morning. With limited time cruising each day, there is ample chance to explore the islands, beaches and reefs and soak up the scenery.
B is for Beaches
New day, new beach. With a daily cruise schedule that gets guests off the boat and onto the beach, you’re encouraged to feel the sand in your toes and the salt water on your skin every day. It is hard to highlight just one, but when the ship ties off from a coconut tree on Nanuya Lailai, that particular shoreline is very inviting (see also
N for Nanuya Lailai). C is for Caves
Put on a snorkel and fins and dive into the sacred Sawa-i-Lau caves in the northern Yasawas. Legend has it that these hidden ancient limestone formations are the resting place of the 10-headed Fijian god, Ulutini. But with low-hanging rocks as you enter the caves, the only head you have to worry about is your own. Once you are past the rocky obstacles, a hole in the ceiling of the first cave lets the light in. Local guides can help you negotiate an underwater passage from the first cave into the second smaller, darker cave. The tide determines how deep you have to dive to make the transition from cave to cave. If you don’t want to get wet, but still want to get a photo of the spot known as the ‘‘heart of the Yasawas’’, there are steps from the shore to the opening of the first cave.
D is for Donation
Small currency can go a long way to supporting Fijian villages. Regular visits from tourists, who pick up a souvenir or two from the shell markets or just leave a few dollars, helps out the outer island communities. With no shops or banks on these remote islands, cash purchases of the locals’ wares from mini market-type setups is as close to retail therapy as you will get. It’s not just monetary donations that have an impact in this part of the world. Children’s books and pencils are also gratefully received by the village schools (see also
E is for Enjoy High Tea Island Style
Consuming fresh coconut plucked from the tree is a tasty treat. But the actual retrieval and opening of the coconut is best left to the experts.
F is for Fijian Hospitality
Who better to discover the outer islands of Fiji with than the locals? The Blue Lagoon Cruises’ all-Fijian crew pride themselves on knowing your name and drink order. There is no chance of fading into anonymity and you quickly feel like you’re part of one big cruise family. With one crew member for every two cruisers there is always someone around to answer your questions or top up your cocktail.
G is for Grown Ups V for Villages).
Passengers under the age of 14 are only allowed on the Fiji Princess during set times, leaving the rest of the year for the grown ups to holiday in a relatively child-free environment.
H is for Hollywood
The 1980 movie Blue Lagoon starring Brooke Shields was filmed in the Yasawas. The film is cringeworthy viewing, but the scenery is instantly recognisable. You’ll also pass the island used for the movie Cast Away, starring Tom Hanks. Islands in the Mamanucas and Yasawas have also formed the backdrop to a number of small screen productions.
I is for iTaukei Language
English is the official language of Fiji but most locals are at least partly trilingual. Alongside English, Hindi and iTaukei language is taught in schools. The iTaukei are the descendants of Fiji’s first settlers and there are 300 dialects of their language. Visitors can get caught out by the difference in how a word is spelt and pronounced in iTaukei language. A ‘‘c’’ is pronounced ‘‘th’’ as in ‘‘this’’. So Mamanuca Islands is pronounced Mamanutha.
J is for Journey
From Port Denarau, through the Mamanucas and then the Yasawas there is plenty to see. Depending on the length of your cruise – there are three-, four- and seven-night options – your journey includes Modriki Island, Soso Bay, Naukacuvu, Yalobi Bay, Blue Lagoon, Sawa-I-Lau and Drawaqa Legend has it that these hidden ancient limestone formations are the resting place of the 10-headed Fijian god, Ulutini. But with lowhanging rocks as you enter the caves, the only head you have to worry about is your own... Island (see also A for Anchorage).
K is for Kava
Kava is the ceremonial drink of Fiji, but is also drunk socially. Made from the pounded roots of the pepper plant (piper methysticum), it has an earthy, bitter taste. If you consume a large quantity of kava, it can have a relaxing effect. There are opportunities to partake on board and ashore.
L is for Lovo
The traditional Fijian way of preparing feasts for special occasions is in a lovo. Similar to the process used by other Pacific cultures, the lovo is an earth oven that cooks the food in three hours and creates a distinctly smoky flavour. Often included in the feast are the roots of cassava (tapioca), kumala (sweet potato), yam and dalo (taro), plus a leg of pork, chicken, fish, beef and lamb. Blue Lagoon Cruises prepares their lovo on Nanuya Lailai.