Sunday Star-Times

Three-minute guide to Doha

With Qatar Airways’ new Auckland-Doha route, takes a look at what to do and where to go in the world’s richest country.

- FEBRUARY 12, 2017

Qatar's Emir has seen the writing on the wall and is preserving his emirate's pre-resourcebo­om Bedouin culture.

Why

The highlight of the world’s richest country is the white mud-brick buildings of Souq Waqif, where veiled women with henna ancient designs on hands sit, while men gather to gossip in sparkling white thobes (robes). With temps above 40, the city naps in the day and comes alive in the evenings.

Visit

Top of the list is the beautiful Museum of Islamic Art. Designed by star-chitect I M Pei, the futurist building is surrounded by graceful, timeless dhows, Arabian sailing boats that have been plying the Arabian Gulf for millennia. Inside, massive windows look out on the skyscraper­s of West Bay and the permanent exhibition is a delight for lovers of fine calligraph­y, art and design from across the Islamic world.

Eat

Doha’s cash lures the world’s best chefs, and Michelin stars abound. For those without an expense account, the glittering mirrors of Persian favourite, Parisi, won’t overshadow the cuisine. Order the khoresht e-fesenjan (chicken cooked in pomegranat­e and walnuts) and saffron creme brulee. Argan in Al Jasra Boutique Hotel serves classic Moroccan dishes in rich surrounds – recline in the majilis area with low couches for an extravagan­t spread of mezze and tagines followed by sweet tea and a puff on a shisha pipe at neighbouri­ng hotel Al Jomrok’s rooftop terrace, overlookin­g the souq.

Look

Doha has two faces. In futuristic West Bay, each new skyscraper jostles for kudos within a landscape of statement buildings, where happening bars live in five-star, multinatio­nal hotels. On the other side, the romantic Souq Waqif’s cobbled lanes lead into tiny stores selling spices, gold, Arabian perfumes, camels and Qataris’ beloved falcons: save time for the modern falcon hospital.

Must

Modelled on a traditiona­l Bedouin village, experience a true hammam in the Doha’s best spa, the Six Senses spa in the Ritz Carlton’s luxurious Sharq Village & Spa. It’ll have you scrubbed, rubbed, then lavished with sweet oils until you glimmer. Dhows line the seaside promenade, the Corniche, waiting for customers – take a dhow cruise out into the bay, from a 20-minute dash to a sunset barbecue.

Sleep

Cool white interiors, with richly woven carpets and elaborate metalwork lanterns, set the tone for an Arabian stay. Sleep in the heart of old Doha, in one of Souq Waqif’s nine boutique hotels, in reworked 30s’ Qatari homes or fortress-style new builds. For a resort getaway with white-sand beaches and lagoon pools, join wellheeled locals at luxe Banana Island Resort, on an island in Doha bay.

Tip

The city is extremely well monitored by CCTV and dashing, traditiona­lly clad police atop prancing Arabian horses in the souq, and feels safe even for solo female travellers. English is widely spoken. – Traveller

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 ??  ?? Banana Island Resort is an oasis in Doha.
Banana Island Resort is an oasis in Doha.

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