A year to experience, explore
Phil Mitchell and his family, from Eastbourne, are on a year’s sojourn in the South of France.
What inspired your move, and how long have you been there?
I am a lawyer in Wellington and have taken a year off to live in Perpignan, France. My wife, Carmen, is French and her parents live in the little village of Canohes, just out of Perpignan. We are here to experience life in France: to see Carmen’s family, learn French and explore the region.
What do you do there?
I have been studying French at the University of Perpignan. The children – Amalia, 14, Dylan, 11, and Flynn, 8 – have been attending a local school.
What are the greatest advantages to living there?
The climate is unbelievable. It is sunny and warm nearly every day. The area is very beautiful, with wonderful beaches, ancient villages, and walking tracks through the nearby mountains.
Disadvantages?
The restaurants are very expensive and the quality of the food is generally poor. Unless you are willing to fork out a fortune to dine in a Michelin-star restaurant, you are better off to source wonderful local produce and cook for yourself. The exception being the boulangeries (bakeries) which are fantastic value and quality.
How expensive is it compared to New Zealand? How much is a beer?
Groceries cost around half the price. A six-pack of Heineken at the supermarket is NZ$5; a good bottle of Bordeaux is $4.50. We pay $250 a week rent for a large three-bedroom apartment in the central city. New Zealand feels very expensive in comparison.
What do you do in your spare time?
We do a lot of travelling and exploring. There are ancient, picturesque villages tucked away in beautiful valleys just behind Perpignan. We often spend our weekend tramping over mountain paths and visiting other towns.
What’s the local delicacy and would you recommend it?
There are wonderful cheeses and wines. The cuisine is traditional Mediterranean with lots of fresh, locally grown produce, herbs and plenty of olive oil.
Easiest way to get around?
You need a car to be able to visit the remote spots. There is a very good roading system in France that enables you to get anywhere quickly.
What’s the shopping like?
I’m not big on shopping. However, there are little markets on every weekend where you can potter about and buy local produce and secondhand goods. It’s a wonderful way to spend a morning.
Best advice?
The myth that the French all secretly speak perfect English yet simply refuse to is about as accurate as that all Kiwis are All Blacks. They just don’t, OK? So if you’d like to interact with French people when you come to France, study the language as much as you can before getting on the plane.
But overall the French in the south are very friendly and welcoming. Even if you don’t speak much, a hearty ‘‘bonjour!’’ and a big, friendly Kiwi smile will get you a long way!
Best time of year to visit?
The weather is wonderful all year round in the south. But try to avoid mid-July to late-August if possible. It is unbearably hot in August – often around 40 degrees during the day and the heat doesn’t go away. It is also extremely crowded everywhere in July and August. All the beautiful little villages are crammed. It’s hard to find parking and you will wait in long queues for cafes, restaurants and ... well, anything.
What are the top three things you recommend for visitors?
There is a beautiful 14th-century fishing village called Collioure which is about 30 minutes drive from Perpignan. It is picturesque, has wonderful swimming beaches, a fascinating 14th-century fort and wonderful cafes and restaurants. Also well worth a visit is Castelnou (which means ‘‘new castle’’): it was built in the ninth century to replace the old one. It is fascinating historically and also includes the original medieval village at its base, which is still inhabited. A wander around the medieval centre of Perpignan is also a lovely way to spend a few hours.
Besides family and friends, what do you miss most about home?
Clean footpaths.
How easy is it for you to get back to New Zealand?
We return from our year’s sojourn in July. The journey is long – an hour’s flight to Paris, 13 hours to Singapore, another 13 hours to Auckland, then another hour to Wellington!
For Kiwis looking to move there, which industries are seeking fresh talent?
The French economy is in bad shape; unemployment in France is at 10 per cent and as high as 18-20 per cent in parts of the south. To obtain employment you also have to be fluent in French.