Fact file
bag and finding deep space inside. That waterproof camera in my right hand? Completely forgotten.
Fortunately the shark – which probably swam alongside a dozen scrawny, flailing mammals that day – showed no sign of caring. It made no sudden moves.
I barely succeeded in getting out of its way. Never touched it. Then its flank passed before me, a blur of white dots, and I was alone again. The whole encounter took about three minutes.
The only thing left to do was find my boat, flop aboard and hope that these sharks and this island can thrive, or at least survive, amid the attention that’s bound to come. – MCT
More information Getting there
holboxisland.com From Cancun, travellers take a two- to three-hour drive to the town of Chiquila. By public bus (ado.com.mx), one-way fares are about US$15. By shuttle bus, fares are US$40US$80 per person (for a couple) from V.I.P. Holbox (vipholbox.com) and Holbox Shuttle (holboxshuttle.com). By taxis, fares are usually US$100-$130 each way. The only way to reach Holbox from Chiquila is the ChiquilaHolbox ferry, about US$5 each way for a 20- to 30-minute ride.
Several companies offer daylong whale-shark tours and half-day trips to Isla Pajaros, Isla Pasion and Yalahau Lagoon. Among them: V.I.P. Holbox, vipholbox.com, and Holbox Adventure, holboxadventure.com.
The island is small enough that these hotels don’t have street addresses. Hotelito Casa de las Tortugas: Twentysix rooms. Doubles from US$186, breakfast and taxes included. Threenight minimum with full payment in advance. See holboxcasalastortugas.com. Posada Mawimbi: Nine rooms, two bungalows. Doubles from US$158-$248, depending on season. Continental breakfast and taxes included. See mawimbi.net. La Chaya Eco Hotel: Nine rooms, many with sea views. Doubles about US$95, breakfast and taxes included. See lachayaholbox .com.
Doing there Staying there Eating there
El Chapulim, Avenida Tiburon Ballenas: Mexican bistro and artisan beer house. Restaurante Milpa, Calle Palomino: Modern Mexican. Dinner entrees about US$10. Mandarina Restaurant and Beach Club: Hotelito Casa las Tortugas. See holboxcasalastortugas.com.