The Islamic world comprises a fifth of the planet’s population and provides great historic, architectural and cultural sights, writes
Brian Johnston.
My first encounter with the Islamic world was a corker: Istanbul, that seductive, worn-out city poised between east and west, whose skyline is punctuated with the exclamation marks of elegant minarets. Its Ottoman pleasure palaces glow with stained glass; porcelain-painted tulips erupt in mosque interiors; hubble-bubbles burp and backgammon pieces click in coffeehouses. I was a university student and beyond Europe (or almost) for the first time. I was smitten.
Istanbul is one of the world’s great Islamic cities, and even its individual sights could jump-start a love affair. The Topkapi Palace is an Arabian Nights of pavilions, splashing fountains and harem quarters. The Grand Bazaar introduces bazaars with a bang: 65 covered streets, 4000-odd shops, the smell of wool, spices and apple tea. The city also has some of the world’s greatest mosques: Sultan Ahmed Blue Mosque in aquarium-like beauty; the gloomy, ancient magnificence of Aya Sofya; Suleymaniye Mosque, whose mausoleum to sultan Suleyman the Magnificent has a fabulous dome studded with glittering diamonds.
Since that first supersized, fantastical foray into the Islamic world, I’ve travelled to many Muslim countries, among them places that rarely get good press in the Western media, such as Iran, Lebanon and prewar Syria. None has disappointed. The Islamic leitmotifs that wowed me in Istanbul were repeated again and again: glorious mosques and palaces, wander-worthy bazaars, the sonorous beauty of sunset calls to prayer, eateries tempting with skewered lamb or honey-oozing pastries. Most of all, I encountered a spontaneous friendliness and hospitality to strangers that is virtually defunct in the Western world.
It’s puzzling, therefore, that so many travellers write off the entire Islamic world as a no-go zone of hostile inhabitants and uncertain politics.
To do so is to ignore a fifth of the world’s population and about 50 Muslim-majority countries. (Other nations such as China, Ethiopia, India, Nigeria, Philippines and Russia have Muslim minorities numbered in millions.) Nor is Islam confined to the Middle East and North Africa. In fact, more than 60 per cent of Muslims hail from our Asia-Pacific region. Indonesia has the world’s largest Muslim population.
The Islamic world has always had myriad religious practices, cultures and languages. That makes it a diverting and diverse place to explore.
Here is a taster of its highlights. You can hardly overlook Islamic history either. Powerful dynasties such as Fatimids, Seljuks, Mughals and Ottomans profoundly influenced world affairs, and during the medieval golden age the Islamic world was an intellectual centre of science and medicine, architecture, philosophy, literature and education. Islamic scholars assimilated knowledge from China, India, Persia and ancient Greece and Rome, transmitting much of it to Europe.
Jantar Mantar, Jaipur, India
The most impressive of five 1730s astronomical observatories built across northern India by maharaja and scholar Jai Singh II, who brought an Islamic scientific sensibility to the Hindu study of astrology. In its day, it was world famous. Instruments determine the latitude and longitude of the sun, the planet’s positions in relation to Earth, and the time to within two seconds. Beautiful sundials banded with white marble look like contemporary sculptures. Structures are still used by Hindu astrologers to plot auspicious dates for weddings and journeys. Displays in the palace museum showcase hand-held astronomical devices.
Entry for adults costs around $6.50. Signboards aren’t informative: use an audio or human guide. See jantarmantar.org
Alhambra, Granada, Spain
The greatest monument of Islamic Spain, this sprawling crag-topping palace and garden complex was begun in the 9th century and extended by Spain’s monarchs for a millennium. The last Moorish ruler departed in 1492.
The Alhambra’s medieval courtyards, reflected in pools, are the apogee of Islamic architecture. The Generalife summer palace is surrounded by glorious Islamic water gardens. Everywhere, views are splendid. Granada isn’t all about the Alhambra. The medieval Moorish Albaicin quarter is a huddle of cubist white buildings. Palacia de la Madraza (lamadraza.ugr.es) has sumptuous Islamic decoration.
Visitor numbers are restricted by timed tickets, which must be bought in advance with admission for adults costing around $23. See alhambrapatronato.es
Imam Square, Esfahan, Iran
One of the world’s largest public squares, laid out in the early 17th century when Esfahan rivalled Constantinople as a centre for trade and theology. It’s surrounded by perhaps the greatest Islamic architectural ensemble anywhere. Imam Mosque is a stunning creation in blue and yellow patterned tiles. Compact Sheikh Lotfallah Mosque has a quiet intimacy and is exquisite. Other remarkable buildings are Ali Qapu Palace and labyrinthine, covered Bazaar-e Bozorg. The square is a sociable evening hub for carriage rides and icecreams.
Adults pay around $9 for entry to most historical monuments in Iran. See isfahancht.ir
Cagaloglu Hamam, Istanbul, Turkey
Turkish hamams were once ubiquitous, sociable neighbourhood bathhouses centred on a domed, octagonal steam room. Today, many cater to tourists. Patrons are massaged and vigorously exfoliated with a coarse mitten that sets the skin tingling.
Built in 1741, this hamam was