You don’t have to go far off the beaten track to find some of Europe’s most accessible wildernesses, writes
Ute Junker.
Most of us love Europe precisely because it is such a civilised place. Picturesque medieval city centres, museums packed with priceless paintings, cathedrals that are works of art in their own right: no matter which country you visit, rich troves of culture and history can be found around every corner. When you need a break, there is always an elegant cafe, a rustic trattoria, or a chic wine bar where you can take a breather.
There is, however, another side to the continent: its wild places. The menacing woods that loom large in our favourite fairy tales, filled with hungry predators, covered much of this continent just a few centuries ago. What may surprise some people is that you can still find remnants of wilderness right across the continent, including pockets where bears and wolves still roam.
From France’s high-altitude plains to Corsica’s dramatic gorges, Transylvania’s pristine forests to Slovenia’s glacially-fed rivers, there is a continent’s worth of epic landscapes to explore. Try out some of these memorable escapes to discover a very different side of Europe.
Picos de Europa, Spain
Mention Spain and what comes to mind are images of buzzing cities such as Barcelona and Seville, sandy beaches and ancient pilgrim trails. Wild mountain landscapes, not so much. However, the Picos de Europa, a series of limestone massifs overlooking northern Spain’s Atlantic coast, offers some wonderful high-altitude hiking opportunities. You can follow trails to the pretty lakes of Covadonga, walk paths carved out of the cliff along the Garganta de Cares, a 1000-metre-deep gorge that stretches for 12 kilometres, or hike along ancient shepherd paths that meander through verdant meadows and beech forests. Along the way, you can visit traditional hamlets such as Sotres and Bulnes, which to this day is inaccessible by road. Whichever path you take, you are guaranteed to soak up some of Spain’s most dramatic scenery along the way.
Explore’s seven-night tour, On Foot in the Picos de Europa, uses the highest village in the area as a base, and offers a series of inspiring day walks. From £745 ($1394). See explore.co.uk
Cairngorms National Park, Scotland
One of Europe’s smallest countries, Scotland is also among its wildest, with just 2 per cent of the country classed as urban. The landscape is studded with ancient forests, cascading waterfalls and tranquil lochs; you will find all of these in Cairngorms National Park in the Highlands, along with five of the United Kingdom’s six highest mountains. The park, which is twice the size of England’s Lake District, has many pretty villages and – this being Scotland – plenty of boutique distilleries. It also has many different moods. For wildlife spotting, head for the harshly beautiful Cairngorm Plateau, where you may see mountain hares, golden eagles, ptarmigan, capercaillie and wildcats. If you prefer a more bucolic outdoors experience, take a picnic to the lovely Loch an Eilein, which comes complete with its own island crowned with a 13thcentury castle.
Wilderness Scotland offers a six-night hiking trip through the Cairngorms including some of the park’s most famous trails exploring the Abernethy Forest and Glen Feshie, as well as following ancient whisky smugglers’ routes. From £1295. See wildernessscotland.com; visitcairngorms.com
Transylvania, Romania
There’s more to Transylvania than vampires. Although this area is bestknown as the home of the mythical Count Dracula, its location in the eastern Carpathian Mountains makes it part of what many consider to be Europe’s last great wilderness. Transylvania’s dense forests are known for their biodiversity: they are home to Europe’s largest populations of bears, wolves and lynx, along with one third of Europe’s plant species. The beauty of these woodlands draws visitors from around the world, as do the area’s castles, fortified churches and medieval towns. Picturesque settlements such as Sighisoara, Brasov and Sibiu, founded by 12th-century immigrants from Saxony, are a lovely place to relax after a wilderness adventure.
U-Tracks’ five-night Transylvania Castles & Mountains self-guided walk takes in some of the area’s most dramatic landscapes, including the Bucegi Mountains. Luggage is transferred each day while you are walking. From $900, see worldexpeditions.com
Gorenjska, Slovenia
Slovenia has a reputation as one of Europe’s most photogenic countries, but what you may not realise is that pretty much every Instagram-worthy image of Slovenia that you have ever seen will have been shot in the Gorenjska region. Pristine lakes, soaring peaks, forests, waterfalls – this area has a kaleidoscopic range of terrains, each more beautiful than the next. You can take to the water for rafting, kayaking or riverboarding, or try rock climbing, cycling, horse riding or even caving. Must-visits include the lovely Lake Bohinj, the gorgeous Mostnica Gorge and the forests of the Pokljuka plateau. In winter, there is plenty of skiing