Erupting geysers and spinning staffs
Where/what is it?
Nestled in the Whakarewarewa Geothermal Valley, plumes of steam can be glimpsed on the five-minute drive from the centre of Rotorua to Te Puia. While some might mutter about a whiff of sulphur in the air, the impressive sight of the largest active geyser in the southern hemisphere erupting should quell most complaints. Home to steaming vents, bubbling mud pools and erupting geysers, Te Puia also preserves and showcases Maori culture, including artist demonstrations and exhibitions at The New Zealand Maori Arts and Crafts Institute.
Why go?
Standing metres away from the Pohutu geyser, boiling water erupts up to 30 metres into the sky, landing as cool mist on onlookers every hour. Nearby mud bubbles burst with tiny pops, some boiling away at about 100 degrees Celsius. But Te Puia is not just about nature or culture, it captures the harmony that exists between the two.
A war cry, unyielding and brave, erupts from the throat of an iwi warrior as he flexes and twirls a staff to intimidate the visitors gathered near the entrance to Te Puia’s model marae. The warrior places a token fern frond in front of the milling visitors. Ignoring the frond is akin to declaring war. Fortunately, the group’s chosen leader picks up the frond, signalling friendship and the start of a welcome ceremony. Visitors then pack into the great hall for a haka performance including song and dance.
Closer to Te Puia’s entrance, students of Te Rito, the weaving school, and Te Wananga Whakairo, the carving school, share their stories and showcase their work. It took close to a decade for one of the intricately carved houses to be built in the early 1900s, paua shells adorning the eyes of figures etched into wood.
Insider tip
Tag along on a guided tour. The tour I join is lead by Te Rina West, 18, a sixth-generation guide.’’It’s our way of continuing our legacy,’’ Te Rina says. ‘‘It’s amazing, I’m extremely lucky to share our culture.’’
She tells our group of how she and people from the nearby Maori village swim in The Blueys Pool underneath Pohutu geyser. Geysers are part of their daily lives in the village, used for ‘‘swimming, bathing and cooking’’, Te Rina says. ‘‘We decided to settle in a volcano.’’
The Earth’s crust is thinner in the area, creating an environment akin to a pot with a loose lid, which let out jets of steam through geysers, she explains. Her passion and extensive knowledge add another fascinating element to the day’s exploration.
Nearby/on the way
For a closer encounter with Rotorua’s mud without the risk – some scalding hot mud pools ‘‘can act like quicksand’’, Te Rina says – the nearby Polynesian Spa offers a mud body wrap to buff and shine skin to a glow. About 10 minutes away by car, the spa also offers 28 hot pools of varying temperatures to soak in, many of which have stunning panoramic views of the lake.
How much
Exploring 70 hectares of the geothermal valley and learning about Maori heritage costs $52. But with optional additions, including a haka performance, traditional banquet and a night tour, a day trip to Te Puia costs up to $155 for an adult or $77.50 for a child in total.
Best time to go
The park is open year round, but visiting on a crisp autumn or winter day allows you to make the most of the geothermal-heated rocks for a warm seat while avoiding the crowds.
- Tess Brunton
The writer travelled courtesy of Destination Rotorua.