Circle of pure gold
Ben Strang reckons that Iceland should be included in many more Kiwis’ travel plans.
The terrain is barren, jagged and rocky – remnants of lava flows that ran across this landscape thousands of years ago. As I look out my window, to a place that appears both desolate and lively at the same time, I can’t help but wonder. Can you actually breath oxygen here? Is this an alien planet?
This confounding land was used in the 2014 film Interstellar as Matt Damon’s inhospitable home world, so you can understand the feeling. Trees are an unusual sight. It’s like Tongariro National Park on steroids. A raw, unforgiving landscape battered by the wind.
Rather than being transported into another galaxy, I’m in Iceland, and the view is part of the one-hour commute from Keflavik airport to the capital, Reykjavik. It’s almost criminal how few Kiwis travel exclusively to see it. When New Zealand tourists think European travel, they generally think of France, Germany, Italy and Spain.
That’s without even mentioning the United Kingdom, the country where more than half of New Zealand’s European visitors set up shop during their time away.
Statistics New Zealand figures show Iceland was the main destination for just 420 Kiwis visiting Europe in the year ending June 2017. Of those, the number on vacation was just 160. During that period, 227,900 Kiwis travelled to Europe. Just one in 542 travellers decided to make the jump three hours north to Iceland, making it New Zealand’s 25th most visited destination in Europe.
For me, Iceland always seemed a step too far when considering travel destinations in and around Europe. It wasn’t until I was in England, researching quick and easy escapes from the motherland that I realised just how easy and affordable it is to get to Iceland. For as little as NZ$160 return, you can fly from the UK or mainland Europe to Iceland’s Keflavik airport with budget carrier WOW air. They’ve changed the game when it comes to Icelandic tourism, with visitor numbers increasing rapidly since they opened for business in 2012.
It’s a clever trick. Flying to Iceland is cheap, but staying there can hit you in the pocket. Accommodation and food is expensive, but tours are generally good value for money.
Once you’ve experienced Iceland, you understand why the country now welcomes more than two million tourists a year, and the state of your wallet is far from a concern.
I’m in Iceland at the beginning of August, when the sun sets at about 11pm and rises about five hours later.
At midnight it’s still light, but thankfully my hostel has the most effective curtains I’ve ever had the pleasure of pulling along the rails.
Reykjavik is bustling throughout the day and into the evening, the main street, Hverfisgata, a particularly busy spot for locals and visitors alike.
Fashion is different, particularly the colours on display. David Bain-style jumpers have really taken off here, as the locals add a splash of colour to everything they can.
Cars can also be out there, with a practical desire to turn already big four-wheel drives into mini monster trucks to battle the harsh winters.
Even an old-school Lada has been given the monster truck treatment, parked up around the corner from Reykjavik’s iconic church, Hallgrimskirkja. Even then, the car isn’t cool.
As fun as Reykjavik is, it’s really just a base for my daily activities, venturing out into the countryside to discover what Iceland has to offer.
A week is nowhere near long enough for an Icelandic adventure, but the southwest corner of the country can be conquered in that short time.
The Golden Circle is a favourite for tourists, and can be tackled through a