Peak of pleasure and pain
Be prepared for sudden weather changes, and it’s no easy walk in the park. But the vistas and alpine colours more than make up for any discomfort, writes Miri Schoeter.
Walking the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in spring definitely has its benefits, with four seasons in one day and just the right amount of people to stop for a chat without being overcrowded.
One minute the sun is beaming down – too hot for four layers of clothing – and the next minute you’ll feel the crunch of snow under your boots.
But on this perfect October weekend, I truly had 360-degree views of mountains, bush and lakes – with not a cloud in sight.
Whatever the season, it’s as magical as the Lord of the Rings films depict it – with Mount Doom and Mordor looming just a few steps beyond –and a few thousand more.
Where
The walk is in Tongariro National Park, about 70 kilometres from Taupo¯ in the North Island.
Time and distance
The main track is about 19km, one way. Most people find that’s enough for a day’s exercise, but you’ll see the odd person pass by, heading in the opposite direction.
The trek takes between six and nine hours, depending on your fitness. Some battle with the uphill hikes; others breeze through.
Starting point
The start is marked as the Mangatepopo car park, south of the crossing. The track then heads north and finishes closer to the Turangi end of the national park.
It is best to get a shuttle to the car park. The Department of Conservation (DOC) has introduced a four-hour parking restriction to stop overcrowding. People now risk having their wheels clamped, so paying for a shuttle service will mean a less stressful experience.
Our group of eight were picked up by a private shuttle from our luxury lodges at the Kinloch Club, after a 5.30am wake-up call (we started walking about 8.30am).
We were taken to Adrift Guided Outdoor Adventures in Tongariro to pick up hiking equipment, including boots, gloves and waterproof gear. We then headed to the car park. The weather was starting to heat up, so we left the ice picks in the van.
Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe stand proud on a cloudless day. The peaks were still snow-capped, which added to the crossing’s array of colours.
The Red Crater gives the landscape another dash of colour, and further afield the blue lakes glimmer in the sun.
They are so rich in colour they look warm and inviting, but people are told by DOC rangers to avoid the sacred water.
By the end of this month DOC will introduce new rangers, who will, among other things, advise hikers not to climb the peaks of Mt Ruapehu and Mt Ngauruhoe, which are also considered tapu.
Instead, we admired the landscape
It may feel like a still, windless day but once you get up the first hill, a cold gust will smack you in the face. I went from stripping down to a singlet, to rapidly throwing on a merino, jumper, windbreaker and raincoat to act as a second wind protectant.
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