Difficulty

If you don’t conquer mountains on a weekly basis, or race up stairs regularly, this can be a tough walk.

While it was a breeze for seasoned walkers in our group, the less experienced were close to setting up camp in the bush for the night as the thought of another uphill battle became increasingly unbearable.

Several steep climbs including the Devil’s Staircase help the muscles warm up in preparation for more hilly sections.

Luckily, what goes up must come down – sometimes in a sliding motion.

My inner daredevil came out as I skidded down a steep gravel slope at the halfway point.

For some, the notoriously slippery slope is quite daunting as they dig their hands into the ground for a slow descent. No matter how you get down, the striking lakes below are worth a grazed knee or two.

Along the way

from the comfort of the adjacent rocky surface. Grooves in the stone acted perfectly as chairs so I sat back, relaxed and had a well-deserved lunch.

I’d recommend a hearty meal with plenty of carbohydrates and fruit to keep energy levels high. Having a little snack at each pit stop also gives a good boost.

I was walking with the faster end of the group so we decided to take a detour after lunch to pass some time.

Not surprisingly, there were more hills to conquer past the lakes. I’m glad we decided to wander around one hill because we discovered steam billowing from the hillside. These vents emitted the eggy smell of sulphur, immediately bringing back childhood memories of family trips to Rotorua.

The landscape’s colours had morphed from the crater’s deep maroon, to the bluest lakes, to mustard-coloured rocks steaming from the heat in the earth below – an astonishing range.

But there were more surprises to come as we headed back to the regular track. There we were greeted by a thick layer of snow. And while most of the track was dry or dotted with a few puddles, this 1km stretch was hard on my legs as my boots sunk into the crisp ground. The snow was so thick that it hadn’t turned into muddy slush. If only I’d saved a carrot to make a snowman’s face.

Things to consider

I’d suggest taking sunglasses no matter what the weather. Dealing with glare from the white snow was a lot easier wearing shades. Sunglasses will also keep dust out of your eyes when heading over rubble during what feels like a wind storm.

Having spent the winter running in the dark with grey cloud coverage most days, I forgot the importance of sunscreen. I counted myself lucky that my skin only turned pink rather than beetroot-red. I managed to scrounge some from another hiker, but ideally it would be best to apply it two or three times during the day.

More information

Taking a guided tour is not only educational (the guide will point out historic lava sites and Lord of the Rings film sites) but also a comfort for lessexperienced hikers.

The guide will encourage you to keep walking when you’re feeling deflated and want to give up, and they will give you a helping hand if you’re feeling cautious on a steep slope.

For people travelling alone, a guide is not only someone to chat to, but can also provide help in difficult areas where a broken bone is a remote possibility.

Final word

Some say it should be classed as a hike rather than a day walk, so be prepared for more than a stroll in the park.

The Tongariro Crossing is for the adventurer, the wanderer, the photographer and the daydreamer. It’s a walk every New Zealander or overseas visitor should experience.

The writer travelled courtesy of Navigate Oceania.