Seals, sea and sun gets to see Abel Tasman National Park from a different perspective.
Hannah Bartlett
Aflash of grey, a splash of a fin, then nothing. To the left of the kayak I spied another streak of grey before a glance behind me revealed a whiskered nose nudging the rudder. A seal pup had come out to play. The day before, kayaking the winding coastline of the Abel Tasman National Park, we’d kept a safe distance from the colony of seals on Adele Island, between Marahau and Torrent Bay. But in the sheltered Falls River, the seal pup was calling the shots.
I’d previously walked part of the Abel Tasman from Marahau to Awaroa, with a night at Bark Bay’s Department of Conservation hut midway, but kayaking offered a different perspective. You get a better feel for the coastline and how pristine the water is, while getting a close look at marine life and seabirds.
Taking part in a Wilsons guided experience, we began at Marahau and went as far as Totaranui, doing a mix of kayaking and walking over three days. While the days were energetic, relaxation was never far away as we were treated to the luxury of bag transfers, meals, hot showers and comfortable beds each night.
Day 1: Marahau to Torrent Bay, 16km
A party of five kayakers, two of whom were guides, we packed dry bags and set out on a still Wednesday morning. Nerves kicked in as the wind picked up and photographer Luz Zuniga and I, both inexperienced kayakers, paddled our double sea kayak into breaking waves. Our guides Michelle and Jacinta instructed us to ‘‘keep paddling’’, advice that was worth following as we avoided any capsize (although I did maroon us momentarily on a flat rock). But for the most part it was a leisurely kayak with plenty of opportunities to rest, eat, drink and photograph birdlife along the way.
Lunch was at Te Pukatea Bay, where we were joined by ducks and weka attempting to pinch our sandwiches, followed by a walk around the headland. Michelle identified native birds by their song and introduced us to edible ferns and plants. Unfortunately, my later solo attempts to identify the marzipan-tasting fern were unsuccessful. My chosen fern did not taste remotely like almonds – it made me feel like I was eating a hairbrush.
We learned about the park’s history while seabirds, seals, and 50 shades of green provided a welcome backdrop to our paddling. Arriving at Torrent Bay late afternoon, we were met by the Wilsons team, who hauled our kayaks onto the beach and got us settled into the beachfront lodge.
Before dinner, I ventured to a lookout over Torrent Bay which, while dotted with houses, has no road in and is only accessible by boat or on foot. It feels a million miles from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Over nibbles and drinks that evening, we swapped stories with our new British friends, who’d chosen to do a guided walk and met us at the lodge. Dinner was steak and roast vegetables, followed by icecream and apple pastry – quite the contrast to my usual hiking dinner of tinned tuna and crackers.
Day 2: Torrent Bay to Awaroa, 17km
Breakfast is served – scrambled eggs, bacon and fried tomato. I made full avail of the coffee machine, feeling spoiled to have a flat white, mid adventure. A lunch-making station with breads, salad, roast vegetables, meats, nuts and snacks made for a fun task putting together a snack-pack for the day.
The first destination was Frenchman Bay, a tiny, privately owned section of the park only accessible by water. You’re not allowed above the high-tide line and we stayed in our kayaks as we made our way into the bay and the small estuary beyond. The water was so clear you could see patterns on the sand beneath.
Next was the swing bridge above Falls River. The river is tidal but timing was in our favour and we even made it to the bridge just as the walkers from our group crossed above us. As we