Get on a roll in Seoul
Collette Devlin went Seoul searching on a recent business trip in the South Korean capital and managed to squeeze in some sights. Deoksugung Palace Seoul City Hall and Seoul Metropolitan Library Eat, drink and be merry Sky Garden
They say first impressions are everything and Seoul certainly stirred my soul. Although my boyfriend has recounted tales about living in South Korea, I wasn’t prepared for the majesty of its capital city – the world’s second-largest metropolitan area, with a population of 25.6 million – home to more than half of all South Koreans.
Flying into Seoul, over the of sprawling metropolis, there were skyscrapers as far as the eye could see. Nestled against a mountainous backdrop, they looked almost Photoshopped.
Situated on the Han River, Seoul’s history stretches back more than 2000 years.
With a city land area of 605 square kilometres, it boasts five Unesco World Heritage sites, 115 museums and attracts more than 10m international visitors each year, making it the world’s 9th most-visited city.
Some quirks that instantly struck me were the immaculately dressed women, the ultra fast internet (it’s renowned for having the highest speed in the world), the blending of temples and palaces with modern architecture, street markets and ‘‘digital’’ bidet toilets with warm seats.
Between a hectic meeting schedule and corporate dinners, I made time for cheap treats and delicious eats.
My two days included a trip on the superb and easy-to-navigate subway; meeting fabulous people; eating the best food; and getting lost in an underground handbag/ginseng mall. It ended with a cold, fun-filled night of karaoke, warmed with soju (Korean vodka).
Here are my six top picks for making the most of a quick visit. Also known as Gyeongun-gung, it was the grand entrance to a beautiful garden that caught my eye. Conveniently located across the road from my hotel, I nipped across for a nosey behind the walled compound and found a beautiful mixture of painted wooden structures and stone palaces. It became a royal residence after the Japanese invasion of 1592 and was used until the turn of the 20th century. While I was there, the palace had co-organised an exhibition of Light and Sound with the National Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, Korea, in commemoration of the 120th anniversary of the declaration of the Korean Empire (1897). The building for the Seoul Metropolitan Government is in Taepyeongno, Jung-gu, at the heart of Seoul. I found the striking stone building while on the Plaza (I was leaving the subway and trying to find my hotel). The new Town Hall is located behind the old facade, which is now home to the library. The view from my window and the Apple Festival on the lawn was enough to lure me out of the warm hotel, into the cold evening, for a proper look.
Namsan
What better way to start a busy business day than a morning run up a mountain? Some of the more motivated members of the delegation took the chance to get some exercise and were rewarded with the breathtaking views of the city. The YNT Seoul Tower, commonly known as Namsan Tower or Seoul Tower, is also located on Namsan Mountain. At 236 metres, the communication observation tower is the second highest point in the city.
Lotte World viewing platform
One of the business delegates, a keen photographer of large-scale panoramas, was lucky enough to shoot Seoul at night from the 123-storey tower that boasts the world’s highest glass-floored, observation deck. The world’s fifth tallest building (555m) cost about $27 to visit, and it lived up to its hype. The spectacular view from the Skydeck on the 118th floor was on par with those at the Shard in London, New York’s World Trade Centre and the Hancock in Chicago. The huge, multi-storey, Lotte World Mall, which has an aquarium, is located next to the tower. A great place to eat is in the bustling Myeong-dong shopping area or nearby Bosingak, where we enjoyed karaoke. The bell inside the Bosingak Bell Pavilion, near the nightlife area, was once used to keep time for citydwellers and is worth a look. We dined like kings in a Myeong-dong restaurant that seemed to be a Kiwi favourite – a giant photo of John Key with the owner watched over us as we ate. The centrepiece was a built-in grill, where the meat was cooked, surrounded by side dishes such as kimchi, which we piled into lettuce leaves with stonecooked rice and the sizzling meat. You could also try the locals’ favourite dish – bibimbap. The rice bowl comes mixed with sauteed roots, marinated beef and chilli paste in a hot stone pot. The SEOULLO 7017 project turned an abandoned motorway flyover into a public garden. Deemed unsafe for the weight of traffic, it was transformed into a pedestrian bridge, regenerating an area that snakes along 983m at a cost of more than $70m. The original concrete has been strengthened and stairs and lifts to the ground have been added. Lined with 24,000 native plants, the area also has a foot spa, a trampoline and glass viewing decks to look at the cars below. An impressive sight, by day and by night.
❚ Collette Devlin travelled to South Korea with assistance from the Asia New Zealand Foundation.