The basics

Surfing is so much more than riding waves. The sport of Hawaiian kings has spun off an entire golden-tanned subculture, complete with its own vocabulary, sought-after hair texture, music genre and spiritual connection. There’s unwritten etiquette that comes with hanging 10 and amateurs should school up before heading to the back of the line-up with seasoned riders. For example, those at the peak of the wave have right of way, other surfers should be given plenty of space when paddling in, surf to your ability when learning and respect the beach.

Giving it a bash

For my surfing debut I made the journey to West Auckland’s Muriwai Beach, a rugged black-sand oasis known for its consistent surf and dangerous currents.

The conditions on this occasion were perfect for my beginner status: 0.6 metre glassy waves and no wind – considered a feeble two out of 10 by normal standards.

My rig was a 2.4m longboard, a hefty beast that would inspire several pitstops from the carpark to the beach. I decided to forgo lessons and leave my wave-riding destiny in the hands of some experienced friends.

Admittedly, there was some eavesdropping on a lesson taking place outside the local surf shop.

Preliminary advice included to paddle hard, to feel out the waves in shallow water, to stabilise yourself on the board before even thinking about standing up, and to cover your face should it be travelling in the direction of the board. Waist-deep water was an ideal starting point; it allowed a decent kickstart off the seabed when propelling forward in front of the waves. While my first instance of being picked up and carried by whitewater happened to be lying front down, it was an absolute thrill.

The next triumph came after making

The feeling was like nothing else. And just like that, I was addicted, seeking another taste until my two-hour board hireage came to an end.

it to one leg with the back knee keeping balance. It wasn’t until the third or fourth attempt that I achieved the ultimate goal: standing up. Be it a