Life in the slow lane
Rewind to island time and enjoy some of the world’s most alluring lagoons and beaches, writes Anuja Nadkarni.
In the time it takes you to get to work in peak hour traffic on a Monday, you could drive around the entire perimeter of a tropical Polynesian island. Or go on a lagoon cruise, swim with exotic sea life in waist-deep water and feed soft coconut flesh to colourful fish.
The Cook Islands offer an escape into another life – a simpler life, where the only traffic you have is at the Saturday morning markets and when the crabs migrate across the main road to the beach.
Rarotonga
Rarotonga is the beating heart of the Cook Islands but it’s a slow beat, with just one main road, only two bus routes, clockwise and anti-clockwise, no traffic lights and no building taller than the tallest coconut tree (this is actually a law). For a tourist, Rarotonga is packed with things to do, from hikes to lagoon cruises and also some quirky spots like the supposedly cursed derelict Sheraton Hotel site. Muri is the tourist hub, with cafes and daily snorkelling tours.
A small passage between two atolls in the Muri lagoon is also a significant historic site. Through that passage left the first traditional canoes, the vakas, from the Cook Islands to Aotearoa, New Zealand.
Fittingly, there is a Kiwi-owned seafood cafe at the foot of the historic site. Mooring’s Fish Cafe has the best seafood sandwiches on the island and is a great place for a quick bite after some stand-up paddle boarding.
The Cook Islands isn’t the cheapest holiday destination. As it’s so far from everywhere, you’ll pay more than you would at home for everyday items such as soaps, shampoo and bottled water. But food is cheap and plentiful. Bargains can be found at the Saturday market and at the night markets in Muri four nights a week, everything is priced under $15.
Petrol is pretty pricey too, so the most economical way for tourists and locals to travel is by scooter or electric bikes.
Hiring a car is a popular alternative for shorter stays and you’ll find driving inland is a real treat. You can get off the beaten path and get a peek into the lives of the locals – volleyball competitions, setting up a hangi feast, coconut water stalls and locals peoplewatching from white plastic chairs in their front yard.
The best part of an island the size of Rarotonga is you can never get lost as long as you follow the sound of the ocean. Don’t forget to spend an evening at the over-water island dance show at the Te Vara Nui cultural village in Muri.
The show portrays the Legend of Tongaiti, the story of a voyaging warrior who came to Rarotonga and made peace with the native people with the help of his beautiful daughter.
It’s all brought together with bright colours, live music and polished dance performances and a phenomenal spread of island food.
We stayed at the Manuia Beach Resort, a fair distance from the tourist mini-town that is Muri but close to the town centre, the weekend markets and the airport.
Located on the western end of the island, views from Manuia’s On The Beach restaurant are spectacular. Every evening you can experience a stunning sunset, a cocktail in hand, and enjoy some hot kai.
Could it get any better? Well, there is Aitutaki.
Aitutaki
The small atoll, only a 45-minute flight