To Russia, with love
From the Golden Ring to the Ring of Fire, why wait for the World Cup to visit Russia, asks Ute Junker.
Russia will soon have a rare opportunity to present itself to the world as an alluring travel destination where, beyond the stereotypical endless queues, bowls of borscht and athletic mischiefs, you may find yourself wandering into a millennium-old place of worship, be awed by a grandiose imperial palace or stroll along city streets towered over by golden minarets.
Given the sheer scale of the country, Russia is also the perfect place to undertake an epic journey, whether you ride the rails or cruise one of its mighty rivers.
And then there is its diversity of cities, from Moscow and St Petersburg to lesser-known centres such as Nizhny Novgorod and Saransk.
But, as Russia races to finalise preparations for hosting the Fifa World Cup – the 21st edition of what is probably now the world’s biggest sporting event – those cities, all of which will host matches, are just the start of Russia’s manifold attractions, which include soaring mountains and forest-filled taiga.
When the first ball of the World Cup is kicked on June 14, the global spotlight will shift from the recent highly politicised Winter Olympics in Korea to Russia.
Even if you’re not attending the World Cup, Russia’s hosting of the event is an opportunity to consider a visit to this controversial though captivating land.
But do be warned: narrowing down your options can be a challenge, as our special guide shows.
The natural wonder: Lake Baikal
In southern Siberia, Lake Baikal is not just the deepest lake in the world – plunging to depths of 700 metres – but is estimated to hold 20 per cent of the unfrozen fresh water on the surface of the planet.
Why go: Covering an area of almost 32,000 square kilometres, Lake Baikal is its own eco-system, with two-thirds of its flora and fauna found nowhere else in the world. It has 27 islands, shoreline walking tracks, pretty villages and hot springs. Surprisingly, it is also the centre of Buddhism in Russia, home to the Ivolginsky Datsan monastic centre.
Don’t miss: Baikal’s largest island, the 72km-long Olkhon, is a place of grassy meadows, sandy beaches and dramatic cliffs. Hire a kayak to explore its coastline, or climb into a Soviet army jeep to visit key sights, such as the Shaman Rock, a sacred place for Siberia’s indigenous Buryat people, and Cape Khoboy, the very northern tip of the island, where seals can sometimes be seen basking on the rocks.
With pretty wooden houses surrounded by immaculate gardens, the village of Listyanka on the lake’s southwestern shore is one of Baikal’s most popular destinations. As well as sunning yourself on the pebbly beach (be aware that the lake’s water is cold, even in midsummer), you can sample smoked omul fish – a local delicacy – at the waterfront market, or follow the Great Baikal Trail through the pine forest to the village of Bolshiye Koty.
Staying there: There are a number of guesthouses in the area, including Nikita’s Guesthouse on Olkhon (olkhon.info/en), but many visitors sign up for a homestay experience.
The country retreat: Karelia
Four hundred kilometres north of St Petersburg, bordered on one side by Finland and on the other by the Arctic Circle, lies Karelia, one of Russia’s loveliest wildernesses. Its 700 kilometres are covered with dense forests studded with no fewer than 60,000 lakes.
Why go: Karelia is a magical destination no matter which season you choose. Head here in summer and you will be able to enjoy the famous White Nights, when the midnight sun sits high in the sky and the forests are full of wild blueberries and cloudberries. Come in winter and you can enjoy the thrill of dog sledding and snowmobiling.
Don’t miss: During summer, the Solovki archipelago near the Arctic Circle is a popular destination, particularly the World Heritage-listed Solovetsky Monastery. Now one of the richest monasteries in all of Russia, the 500-year-old monastery filled a very different function during Soviet times, when it was part of the infamous Gulag prison system. In winter, take a snowmobile trip across the frozen Lake Onega to Kizhi Island, home to the magnificent Cathedral of the Transfiguration, crowned with
22 onion domes. This is also a wonderful place to see the shimmering glow of the Northern Lights, and perhaps try your hand at ice-fishing.
Staying there: There is a range of accommodation available across Karelia, including guesthouses and Scandinavian-style chalets. One of the best modern hotels is Frigate on the shores of Lake Onego. From 3600 rubles ($87) twin share, including breakfast. See frigatehotel.com
The longest river: The Volga
Europe’s longest river flows through Central Russia all the way to the Caspian Sea, but most cruise companies concentrate on the stretch between Moscow and St Petersburg. Known as the Golden Ring, this is home to a string of medieval towns.
Why go: This is the Russia that launched a million postcards: wooden houses, riotously coloured churches and monasteries, flower-studded meadows and endless onion domes shining in the sunlight.
Don’t miss: Each of the stops on the Golden Ring has its own charms, but Yaroslavl is a special place. The biggest and oldest, this 1000-year-old city has a lovely neoclassical city centre, while the Volga Embankment is a perfect spot for strolling. Other popular stops along the route include Kostroma, the hometown of the Romanov dynasty, and Rostov-Veliky. If you prefer a more adventurous itinerary, head further downstream to Kazan, where east meets west. The capital of the republic of Tatarstan, Kazan is a city of minarets as well as domes, a place where the street signs are in Tatar as well as Russian. The city’s magnificent Kremlin is its most famous attraction, but other architectural standouts include the over-the-top Ministry of Agriculture building.
The classic journey: Trans-Siberian Railway
Known as one of the world’s greatest train journeys, there are three separate
routes that collectively comprise the Trans-Siberian Railway. The longest, from Moscow to Vladivostok, covers an astonishing 9258 kilometres and takes seven days non-stop – longer, if you choose to alight along the way.
Why go: Railway fans will tell you there is no better way to see a country than riding the rails, and the TransSiberian Railway offers some astonishing panoramas, from the endless forests of larch, birch, silver fir and pine trees, to the 180-kilometre section that skirts the edge of Lake Baikal. For some travellers, it is the slightly surreal experience of the train trip itself – complete with stops in the middle of the night and long afternoons spent in the dining car – that is the main attraction.
Don’t miss: You could stay on the train and do the journey all in one hit, but why would you? A number of tour operators offer itineraries that include stops. Popular places to explore include the Siberian town of Irkutsk, with its lovely 19th-century buildings, and Lake Baikal.
The ultimate adventure: The Ring of Fire
Right at the edge of Russia’s eastern boundary is the Kamchatka Peninsula,
a 1250-kilometre-long tongue of land stretching into the Pacific Ocean. Part of the geologically active zone known as the Ring of Fire, the wonderfully wild Kamchatka is Russia’s equivalent of Alaska.
Why go: How is it that so few people know about Kamchatka’s stunning beauty? Think snow-capped volcanoes, white-water rivers filled with salmon and steaming hot springs.
Part of it is down to its remoteness, but part of it is also down to history. This was where the Soviet Union stationed its Pacific Fleet, making this area off limits to just about everyone. It is only recently that expedition cruises have started exploring its magnificent landscapes. Don’t miss: Get set to enjoy some magnificent wildlife sightings: anything from arctic foxes to sea otters and brown bears.
Archipelagos such as the Commander Islands are home to huge colonies of seabirds, including sea eagles, puffins and auks. The waters teem with whales, fur seals and porpoises. The deserted beaches of Cape Navarin are home to basking walrus, while Keyngypilgyn Lagoon is known for its rich population of geese, swans and eiders. St Petersburg sits on the Gulf of Finland, flanked by Finland and Estonia. Conjured up out of marshland by Peter the Great, St Petersburg is not just Russia’s most romantic city, thanks to its canals, palaces and elegant townhouses, but its most history-filled destination.
Don’t miss: You could spend days just visiting the Hermitage Museum, where the masterpieces compete for attention with the building itself, a former imperial palace. More imperial palaces lie outside the city – the opulent Peterhof and Tsarskoe Selo are must-visits – but there is much to see in town itself, including Vasilevskiy Island. St Petersburg’s churches are magnificent – the dazzling Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood outshines even St Isaac’s Cathedral – but one of the great joys of this city is going for a walk and seeing what you discover. From the promenades on Nevsky Prospekt to quiet side streets lined with belle epoque architecture, the city is made for strolling.
Staying there: For imperial grandeur, the magnificent Belmond Grand Hotel Europe is hard to beat. Off Nevsky Prospekt, a short walk from the Hermitage, this grande dame has all the bells and whistles, including a Caviar Room. From RUB17,500 ($423) twin share, for bed and breakfast. See belmond.com
The family-run Alexander House Hotel offers 20 rooms, each named after a different global destination. With a 24-hour restaurant, welcoming common areas and helpful staff, this hotel ticks all the boxes. From RUB5940 ($143) a room, twin share, including breakfast. See a-house.ru
The cosmopolitan capital: Moscow
Moscow lies about 700 kilometres southeast of St Petersburg. Big, bold and bustling, Moscow is a city filled with confidence – and rightly so. There is the spectacular Red Square, the lively Old Arbat and the everimpressive Metro, where the stations double as works of art.
Don’t miss: Sooner or later, every visitor ends up at Red Square. The question is, what to check out first? There is Lenin’s tomb, the candy-cane domes of St Basil’s Cathedral, and even the city’s elegant shopping mall, GUM, where the architecture is as gorgeous as the window displays. Right next door sits the mighty Kremlin, the city’s ancient power centre. There is plenty to see in this complex of palaces and cathedrals. Don’t miss The Armoury, which displays priceless treasures including royal costumes, sumptuous imperial carriages, and priceless Faberge eggs, including the Grand Siberian Railway egg, with gold train, platinum locomotive and ruby headlamp. Art lovers should head for the Moscow Museum of Modern Art, displaying works by Kandinsky, Chagall and Malevicj, among others.
Staying there: For more than a century, the Metropol has been the place to stay in Moscow. Just a few steps from Red Square, this sumptuous hotel has hosted everyone from Lenin and Stalin to Michael Jackson. From RUB15,000 ($362) a night, twin share. See metropol-moscow.ru
Prefer something a little more contemporary? The StandArt Hotel has a vaguely 50s feel teamed with graffiti murals. The inhouse restaurant SeverYug is helmed by Michelin-starred chef Angel Pascual. From RUB12,000 ($290). See standarthotel.com – Traveller