Our golden oldies
The past is well and truly alive in Russell and Arrowtown, but which can lay claim to being our most historic place? Village with a hell of a history
When I was growing up, Russell was a mere hop, skip and a jump across the Bay of Islands by ferry for an icecream or two in the summer months.
A walkthrough of the township with its museum curator reveals there’s a lot more to one of the North’s most popular tourist destinations.
Korora¯reka, Russell’s original name, is famed for Ma¯ori chief Ho¯ ne Heke felling the flagpole several times, and is often referred to as the one-time Hell Hole of the Pacific.
There’s a number of New Zealand’s oldest buildings and sites of major historic events, meaning Arrowtown can’t hold a torch to claiming the title of New Zealand’s most historic town.
I even discovered a personal connection to Russell; I have a family link to Hannah King Lethbridge, one of the first Europeans born in New Zealand, who is buried in the town. Born in 1817, she had three husbands and lived to 90.
To those arriving via passenger ferry from Paihia, Russell appears a sleepy village. It’s hard to imagine it was once the scene of the battles, fires and debauchery that gave it such a reputation.
You can walk along the main waterfront in about 15 minutes. But most people stop to take in Pompallier Mission and the grand Duke of Marlborough hotel (holder of the nation’s first liquor licence), and look out across the water to imagine the waka, naval vessels and whaling boats which once anchored there.
The historic inner precinct of Russell also features Christ Church, the oldest in New Zealand. But despite these landmarks, there are a few misconceptions about Korora¯reka.
Perhaps the most common is that Russell was New Zealand’s first capital. It was actually at nearby Okiato and Governor William Hobson’s decision to move it to Auckland caused great offence at a time of building relationships between Ma¯ori and Pakeha.
Museum curator Kate Martin describes Korora¯reka as ‘‘multidimensional, multidenominational, and multicultural’’ – a description she bases on ‘‘30 or 40 years’’ of research. ‘‘To me it is one of the most significant places in New Zealand.’’
Standing atop Maiki Hill, the site of the famous flagstaff, you can take in a number of the great peaks of Nga¯puhi, the Waitangi Treaty Grounds and Rakaumangamanga, which is said to be New Zealand’s point in the Pacific ‘‘Polynesian triangle’’. The flagstaff is often only referred to in terms of Ho¯ ne Heke and his men felling it four times, after the British hoisted their flag, triggering the Battle of Korora¯reka which led to the Northern War. Renowned rangatira and peacemaker Maihi Kawiti resurrected the flagstaff for the final time, and called it whakakotahitanga – a symbol of unity between Ma¯ori and the Crown. Martin describes the sites as one of the most significant of New Zealand’s ‘‘ dual heritage and our shared future’’. Given Russell was the location of any number of key interactions between Ma¯ori and the Crown, there’s no doubt it’s earned its spot as New Zealand’s most historic town. Martin says the ‘‘Hell Hole’’ tag is an exaggeration. As the southern hemisphere’s largest whaling port, it has been described as a town of brawls, grog and prostitution. But Martin says it’s unlikely the town was really such a godforsaken place, given most of the whalers were Quakers. Nevertheless, the village’s ‘‘hell hole’’ past is embraced dramatically every anniversary weekend in January when missionaries, priests, merchants and temperance campaigners play out scenes in the streets and lock sometimes bewildered passers-by in stocks for ‘‘misdemeanours’’. There’s more to Russell than many people think. and it’s well worth a lengthy visit – you might discover your own personal connection, just as I did.