Tokyo, one small bite at a time
Janice Kirkwood and Sue Dempsey introduce fellow foodies to the Japanese capital’s delights.
Where are you from?
Wellington. We’ve been friends and business partners for over 25 years.
What inspired your move, and how long have you been there?
We have been living in Tokyo for up to 12 weeks of the year for the last two years.
What do you do there?
We host Eating Tokyo tours in May and October. We introduce small groups of up to six guests to Tokyo and Japanese cuisine. We visit markets and Kappabashi kitchen street, experience tea, sake and oyster tastings, and dine at a range of restaurants and casual izakayas from yakitori to yakiniku and yakiton. We end each week with cocktails overlooking the city and dinner at a sushi restaurant.
What are the greatest advantages to living there?
Being able to fully immerse ourselves in the food scene. Eating traditional Japanese breakfasts, visiting standingbars in the evening for a beer and a few skewers, dining at rowdy, fun izakayas and high-end kaiseki restaurants. We get to try it all. Also, being able to sample so many ingredients that are not readily available outside of Japan such as fresh wasabi, uni and yuzu.
Disadvantages?
Lack of space. Apartments are really tiny and finding a two-bedroom apartment has been difficult. Kitchen, living and dining areas are often one room. In our last apartment the second bedroom was an alcove off the living space with a single bed and a glass sliding door.
How expensive is it compared to NZ?
It’s not as expensive as you might think. You can choose to spend a fortune or live fairly cheaply. A pint of beer at an izakaya costs ¥600 (NZ$8). There is a huge emerging craft beer scene too but we are obsessed with local sake.
What do you do in your spare time?
We venture into new neighbourhoods. With approximately 13 million people in Tokyo, each suburb is like a selfcontained city, each has its own special vibe. Asakusa and Nezu are old Japan, Harajuku is modern and lively, Tomigaya and Naka-Meguro have a cool, eclectic vibe. And, of course, we are always seeking out new restaurants.
What’s the local delicacy?
The seafood is amazing and super fresh. Neither of us is a huge fan of New Zealand kina but Japanese uni is a different variety of sea urchin. It is creamy, rich and tastes of the sea. One restaurant we visit has a fantastic dish of cucumber rolls covered in uni, crab, raw chopped tuna and salmon roe. It is to die for.
Easiest way to get around?
The metro is frequent, fast, cheap and reliable. A three-day (72-hour) pass for all lines is ¥1500 (NZ$20).
Best after-dark activity?
Eating out. With over 150,000 restaurants in Tokyo, we are spoilt for choice. We still haven’t cooked dinner in our apartment. If we did want to have a night in we would probably pick up something from the amazing Isetan food hall.
Best time of year to visit?
Japan is at its most spectacular and the weather most pleasant in spring and autumn. Everyone knows about cherry blossom in spring but the autumn colours should not be missed.
Your top three for visitors?
Sushi breakfast at the Tsukiji outer market; visit a department store food hall; and walk the back streets of Yanaka and Nezu.
How easy is it for you to get back to New Zealand?
Air New Zealand flies daily from Tokyo to Auckland. It’s an easy 10-hour flight, enough time to binge on movies.
For Kiwis looking to move there, which industries are seeking fresh talent?
English teachers are always in demand. Japan is also gearing up for Rugby World Cup next year and the Olympics in 2020.