Fine years in Provence
Former Dunedinite Nadine Maffre now lives in the small French village of Alleins, in Provence.
If you know an expat who wants to share inside knowledge of their home away from home, email travel@stuff.co.nz
with Expat in the subject line.
What inspired your move, and how long have you been there?
My husband, who is French, and I had been toying with the idea of moving to France for a while. We decided there was never going to be a ‘‘perfect’’ time to move, so just jumped in and started planning! We’ve now lived here for two years.
What do you do there?
I’m a fulltime travel blogger for my site, Le Long Weekend.
What are the greatest advantages to living there?
I’d lived in the UK in my 20s and loved how accessible travel is in Europe. Other than that, I love that my son has been immersed in another culture, and is now bilingual at age 5.
Of course, the weather was a major drawcard – we live in Provence where the summers are long, dry and hot.
Disadvantages?
Ask any expat in France and they’ll tell you what a nightmare it is dealing with the administration. The only other big disadvantage is all the compulsory insurances, payable over and above the high taxes.
How expensive is it? How much is a beer?
We returned to New Zealand for five weeks last year and were shocked at how expensive food is. Eating well in France is most definitely cheaper.
Fresh produce is abundant so that also helps to keep costs down. As for beer, the real question should be how much is a glass of wine. As the drink of choice in France, prices are very reasonable and the quality is excellent. You can order a pichet (equivalent to a bottle of wine on tap) of decent wine in a restaurant for as little as 6 euro ($10).
What do you do in your spare time?
Most weekends are spent exploring our own backyard. We’ll often go for a walk in the Luberon Valley or closer to the coast, to explore a crumbled chateau, or to discover a village we haven’t yet visited.
What’s the local delicacy?
Fougasse is the local flatbread made with herbs and olives, and it’s delicious.
Easiest way to get around?
Having a car is undoubtedly the easiest way to get around if you’re sightseeing. But between major cities, the train can be a great option, too. The TGV will get you to Paris in three hours from Aix-en-Provence.
What’s the shopping like?
We live in a small village, but I go into Aix when I need to shop. Aix is home to some amazing small boutiques, and the ‘‘high street’’ shops are browse-worthy, too. Some of my new favourites include Comptoir des Cotonniers (French), Massimo Dutti (Spanish), and Sezane (French – online only).
Aix is also a big market city, with multiple markets taking place through the week selling everything from fresh flowers and local produce to ceramics and fashion.
Best after-dark activity?
Eating out and listening to live music.
Best time of year to visit?
The shoulder seasons of April/May or September/October. Provence does get very busy during the summer months, so travelling either side will allow you to breathe a little while still taking advantage of the warmer weather and tourist attractions being open.
What are the top three things you recommend for visitors?
I’d have to say 1) Touring the Calanques of Cassis – by foot, or by boat/kayak when the tracks are closed. 2) Visiting the villages of the Luberon Valley. 3) Spending some time in Aix – taking in the museums, strolling the old town, and sampling the cafe culture.
What do you miss most about home?
The general easiness of living there. Simple things like opening an account, doing your tax return, or paying your bills online are a whole lot harder in France.
I also miss the diversity in the cuisine, including the lack of international flavours and options outside of traditional French meals. I’d do anything for a good brunch.
How easy is it for you to get back to NZ?
Besides the cost of three of us flying, it’s relatively easy.
We’re lucky enough to live near three international airports, as well as being within drivable distance of Barcelona, Milan and Paris – so we have a few options when it comes to flights. We normally look for a good ratio between price and time travelling.
For Kiwis looking to move there, which industries are seeking fresh talent?
If you’re willing to move to one of the larger cities, there’s a big push for recruitment in the tech industry. In more rural areas, jobs in agriculture and hospitality are common.