Waikumete Cemetery
Located in Glen Eden in West Auckland, this is the largest cemetery in New Zealand and, at 108 hectares, one of the biggest parks in the city. It’s also one of the oldest, established in 1886.
It’s still in use, with a crematorium on site and you may encounter a funeral in progress, but there is plenty of room to wander away and find a peaceful spot where you’ll see only the occasional walker perhaps with a dog.
Why go
Yes, it’s full of dead people – 70,000 of them – but Waikumete is a beautiful place to stroll, to enjoy nature, to learn some history and generally appreciate being in the moment. There are hills, big trees, lots of flowers cultivated and wild, winding roads and grassy paths to follow, birdsong to listen to, and views to enjoy, to the city and to the Waita¯kere Ranges. The Chapel of Faith in the Oaks is historic and picturesque.
And, of course, there are all those graves and memorials to contemplate: to Erebus, the Holocaust, the 1918 flu epidemic, and the war dead. From the city’s earliest settlers to those who died last week, there are people from all cultures, all religions and none, ordinary, famous and infamous. Maurice Shadbolt lies there, and Bruce McLaren.
On a leisurely amble through the grounds, you can compare and contrast burial procedures and customs: Christian, Jewish, Muslim; military and civilian; Pa¯keha¯ and Ma¯ori; rich and poor; traditional and modern. There’s an eco-burial section that’s green in both senses.
The older part of the cemetery is more grassy and spacious, individual and higgledy-piggledy. The newer part is neater, straighter and more conventional. You’ll find well-tended graves with personal touches, and those of the forgotten, picturesquely unkempt.
Insider tip
If you really want to learn Waikumete’s secrets, go on one of the Friends of the Cemetery guided walks that will show you sites you might miss on your own, and tell you the stories behind the headstones. If you’d rather not cry, don’t go to the Stillborn section, which is truly affecting.
On the way/nearby
Afterwards, you’ll be in need of refreshment and/or consolation, so head to nearby Titirangi for a coffee at one of the many excellent cafes, a soothing browse around the arty shops and galleries, and a colourful encounter with the town’s roosters and chickens.
How much
The cemetery is free, but the Friends would appreciate a gold coin donation if you take a walk.
Best time to go
To see Waikumete at its most colourful, visit between September and December when its wildflowers, the majority from South Africa, are in bloom. But every season has its particular beauty. See friendsofwaikumete.org.nz.