Spice up your life Crack out the pestle for taste-bud tingling recipes

Apestle and mortar is a fine way of bringing out whatever frustration you have on civilisation in a dignified manner. I did a lot of pestling the week of Trump’s inauguration, I can tell you. If you don’t have one, for goodness’ sake go and get one. Even the lofty big stone ones come cheap as chips at Chinese supermarkets.

Mine is a black granite behemoth that weighs roughly the same as a baby elephant and takes up about as much room. There is something about them though, aside from their considerable usefulness around the kitchen; they count as some of the oldest tools known to humanity, with the earliest examples dating back to 35,000BC.

I know that it’s easier to use a food processor, but have you ever made pesto (note the etymological link) in a pestle and mortar? Or ground up a spice paste? Made your own peanut butter? Sure, it’s a bit of effort, but I think I can safely say that we all need a bit more cardio in our lives. If you don’t have one, make the investment. If you do, get pounding.

Sichuan pepper squid

Sichuan pepper is one of my favourite spices. I must be a bit of a masochist, but I find the numbing sensation it leaves on the lips utterly intoxicating. It originates from Northern China, and has made its way into Nepalese, Bhutanese, Tibetan, and Indian cuisines. Valued for said mouth-numbing properties, the flavour profile – peculiarly enough when you think about it – is more lemony than anything else.

Make sure your oil is hot and that you cook it in batches. Frozen squid is fine if you can’t get fresh.

‘‘I must be a bit of a masochist, but I find the numbing sensation it leaves on the lips utterly intoxicating.’’

Prep time: 25 mins Cook time: 15 mins Serves: 4-6 as a snack

❚ 600g squid tubes, cleaned

❚ Half a lemon

❚ 1 tsp black peppercorns

❚ 1 tsp white peppercorns

❚ 3 tsp sichuan peppercorns

❚ 4 tsp sea salt (I use Maldon)

❚ 150g rice flour

❚ 3 egg whites, lightly beaten

❚ Oil, for frying

❚ Lemon wedges, to serve

Halve the squid tubes lengthways, then open out flat and score the inside in a criss-cross pattern. Slice into rustic strips. Combine in a bowl with the juice from the lemon and set aside.

Combine the black, white and sichuan peppercorns in a dry pan and lightly toast until they smell wonderful. Remove from the heat and allow to cool down before combining with the sea salt in a pestle and mortar and bashing into a rough-ish powder. Save a teaspoon of the mix for scattering on top of the cooked squid and combine the rest with the rice flour in a large bowl.

Give the egg whites a bit of a whisk until they are foamy.

In a saucepan, get your oil nice and hot. In batches, dip the squid into the egg white and then into the rice flour mix, and then into the hot oil to fry for about 30 seconds, until it is crisp but not coloured. Take care not to drop too much squid into the oil at once, as it will bring the temperature down and you’ll be left with a stodgy mess. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the cooked squid to kitchen paper to drain of excess oil while you finish the rest. Serve immediately with the remaining pepper mix sprinkled over the top and lemon wedges on the side.

Idon’t know about the rest of you, but this oppressive heat is driving me spare. I’m much too Scottish for it. Eating can become a chore, if you’re not careful. was up in Vietnam last month where this sort of thing is commonplace and a marvellous way of dealing with the heat. Green papaya is very popular as well – if you can find some, use that instead. Often dried shrimp or fresh or pickled crab is added for a bit of umami tang.

Get as green a mango as you can find – the crunchier the better. I love the astringency.

If you have time, cover and chill for an hour or so for the flavours to acquaint with one another.

Be wary of how much chilli you put into this; depending on what variety of chilli you use, you may inadvertently end up blowing everyone’s head off, so tread carefully and taste before you add.

On the other hand, if you’re feeling brave, keep the seeds in. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

This makes a beautiful bedfellow for the squid, by the way.

Hot mango salad

Prep time: 20 mins Cook time: zilch Serves: 4 as a side dish

Handful of cherry tomatoes, quartered

Handful of green beans, ends removed and sliced lengthways

2 mangoes, peeled and thinly sliced

For the dressing:

2 tbsp roasted peanuts

3 cloves garlic

1 red chilli – to taste (see note above) 11⁄2 tbsp palm or brown sugar

2 tbsp fish sauce

1 tbsp soy sauce

Juice of 1 lime

Using your trusty pestle and mortar – or, if you must, a food processor – blitz the peanuts, garlic and chilli into a rough paste, then add the brown sugar, fish sauce, soy and lime juice so that you end up with a thick dressing. Don’t let it get too smooth; you want a bit of texture.

In a large bowl, combine with the tomatoes, beans and mango and toss together well. Taste and adjust soy/ chilli levels, and serve.