Stockholm - hip, colourful and fun
Dana Johanssen finds that Stockholm is a hip, progressive city that’s fast-becoming a must-stop on your European itinerary.
The cultural stereotypes were addressed from the get-go. ‘‘What do you tend to associate with Sweden?’’ our host asked soon after we touched down in Stockholm. Our sheepish responses ranged from ignorant to mildly offensive. ‘‘Ikea,’’ said one, ‘‘meatballs,’’ said another, before someone else blurted out ‘‘ridiculously hot people’’ which, while not politically correct, at least pleased our host.
It is fair to say that Sweden has a reputation that precedes itself, but it’s one that overlooks the real gems the country has to offer.
Spend a couple of days in Stockholm and you’ll find there’s more to the country than reasonably priced but relationship-jeopardising flat-pack furniture and blonde goddesses.
It’s laid-back, hip and progressive, with a rich culture. Oh, and the meatballs are excellent.
Here are the highlights for time-poor visitors.
Day one
9am: Breakfast at Hobo
Fuel up for a busy day ahead. Hobo is one of a number of sleek new hotels in Brunkebergstorg, central Stockholm. The menu offers a range of options, and you can get the works or build your own. This way you pay for what you choose and it reduces food wastage. It’s all about sustainability, a common word in Stockholm.
10am: Explore the Old Town
A warren of narrow cobblestone streets, Stockholm’s Gamla Stan has a picturesque oldworldy vibe. That could have something to do with the area dating to the 13th century. The obvious drawcard is the Royal Palace with its grand apartments, but meander through the cosy alleys to find some hidden gems and quirky treasures.
Noon: Take in the grandeur of the Nationalmuseum
After five years of renovations, Stockholm’s Nationalmuseum reopened last year. The museum’s design and portrait collections from the Middle Ages to the present day are exquisitely laid out, with the museum’s bold colour palette complementing the works. Make time for lunch at the gallery’s restaurant. Forget the overpriced sandwiches and stale slices you find at New Zealand museum cafes, this gallery is home to an award-winning restaurant run by a celebrity chef.
3pm: Time for more arts and culture at ArkDes The Swedes take their architecture and design seriously – so much so that they have their own national centre for architecture and design. It is a museum, study centre, and an arena for discussion about the future of architecture, design and citizenship. You won’t look at a park bench the same way after visiting this place.
5pm: Cocktails at Nest, Downtown Camper Hotel This is another hip new hotel in the central city. And the Nest Cocktail Lounge is a rooftop bar with cool and quirky design features and beautiful city views you won’t want to leave. 7pm: Dinner Urban Deli
Urban Deli is a mix of grocery store, market hall, bar, and restaurant. Take time to peruse the grocery section (the fishmonger is particularly impressive), before taking a seat in the bustling restaurant.
Day two
9am: Visit City Hall
Begin your day at Stockholm’s distinctive City Hall, a feature of the city’s skyline. Among the highlights of the City Hall’s stunning interiors are the Golden Hall – covered in mosaics depicting Sweden’s history – and the stately Blue Hall, the venue for the annual Nobel Prize awards banquet. If you have delusions of grandeur you can practise your walk down the marble staircase in preparation for the day your work is finally recognised by the Nobel Foundation. You’ll also find stunning views across the city.
10am: Sodermalm (Sofo)
Speaking of delusions of grandeur, you’re sure to enjoy the Sodermalm district, rated by Vogue magazine as the ‘‘coolest’’ neighbourhood in Europe. Sodermalm lies in the south of Stockholm and is known as the hipster area. Stockholmers call this neighborhood Sofo (south of the street Folkungagatan, which supposedly marks the start of the hip area). It feels laid-back, funky, bohemian and creative, with heaps of trendy boutiques and quirky stores to explore, or just park up at a cafe for a spot of people-watching.
Noon: Lunch at Pelikan
If you want to try traditional Swedish meatballs,
Pelikan is your place. In a rustic Sofo beer hall with high ceilings, the atmosphere is relaxed, the food affordable, and the crowd an eclectic mix.
2pm: Explore Royal Djurgarden
Take the tram to this popular area. The island is home to many of Stockholm’s must-see attractions, all within handy walking distance of each another. There’s Skansen, the world’s oldest open-air museum and zoo; for something different, check out the surprisingly stylish Abba Museum; or stroll around to admire the elegant architecture.
4pm: Vasa Museum
In August 1628, royal flagship Vasa sank in Stockholm harbour in front of horrified onlookers just a kilometre into its maiden voyage. Today, it sits proudly in its own light and temperaturecontrolled museum, and is a vital resource for naval historians and archaeologists. It may seem strange that a piece of catastrophic nautical engineering is the most visited museum exhibit in Stockholm, but the wonder is in its preservation and the insight the glorious wooden ship offers into 17th-century life. Don’t miss the excellent movie about the disaster and dramatic recovery of the ship from the sea floor in 1961.
7pm: Dinner at Oaxen Slip
Further along Djurgarden lies this gem of the Stockholm restaurant scene. Housed in a converted boat shed, the innovative fit-out pays homage to the building’s origins, with boats suspended from the ceiling. It’s a perfect spot to enjoy waterfront views while dining on a menu of outstanding Nordic cuisine made with seasonal local ingredients.
Top tip:
While it’s easy to get around Stockholm on foot, it is worth making full use of the underground train system. Not only will it save blisters, but the stations are a destination in themselves. Described as the world’s longest art gallery, each station is adorned with unique art installations, turning a utilitarian space into something vibrant and welcoming. Some of the more famous stations are T-Centralen (blue line), Kungstradgården, Solna Centrum, Stadion, and Citybanan – Odenplan. My favourite art installation was Toward The Light – a tiled wall with a difference at the T-Centralen station. The tiles are painted in 15 colours, creating a holographic effect. As you take the escalator up to leave the station, the wall changes colour, like an inanimate chameleon.
The writer was a guest of Singapore Airlines.