Stuff Escapes Join us on an epic tour of India
It was a warm, somewhat muggy, afternoon in October 2018 when 56 Kiwis arrived at Delhi International Airport. Over the next two weeks, we experienced a lot. We explored the chaos of Delhi, stood in awe before the marble grandeur of the Taj Mahal, wandered through the little town of Bundi (and made it into Bundi’s local newspaper), tracked and found a bengal tiger in Ranthambore, and marvelled at Udaipur – a serene city of lakes.
In Ranthambore, we spent time with the local women whose homes were displaced by the creation of the national park. Today, Dastkar Ranthambore, a non-government, non-profit initiative, upskills them in the traditional craft of patchwork, block-printing, tie-dying – providing them with an income and hope for their future. We were welcomed into their homes and their lives.
In Agra, a group slipped away to visit Sheroes Hangout, a cafe run by female acid attack survivors – their spirit unbroken by their horrific past.
For many of us, the journey was a sensory overload – the opulent lifestyle of royalty before colonial rule, the grandeur of seven-star hotels and ostentatious Bollywood performances, juxtaposed with poverty and corruption. We all came away with a little touch of ‘‘Delhi belly’’. But we also came away much richer. Along the way friendships were formed, experiences were shared, and a whole new world was discovered. The overwhelming response at the end of our two weeks was: ‘‘When can we come back?’’
India is the world’s second-most populated country, and it’s growing and transforming at an unprecedented rate. It is best explored with those who understand its intricacies, its history and its charm.
From the souk-lined streets of Old Delhi and the palaces of the Pink City (Jaipur), to the forests of Ranthambore, once the private hunting grounds of the Maharajas and the opulent Taj Mahal,
Stuff and travel experts Wendy Wu have created the tour of a lifetime.
Relax, knowing your flights, accommodation, meals and tours are included. Along with knowledgeable local guides, you’ll be accompanied by our guest India experts – former NZ diplomat with strong ties to India, Graeme Waters; acclaimed actor and playwright of Indian descent, Jacob Rajan; and myself, Stuff’s editorial travel director.
I’m excited to invite our readers to discover the real India.
October 11-12: New Zealand to Delhi
As the capital of India, Delhi is the country’s third largest city, with a population of approximately 18 million. Its strategic location along the northsouth, east-west route has given it a focal position in Indian history, and many great empires have been ruled from there. The monuments and ruins of these are scattered throughout the city, often side by side with modern structures and high-rise towers.
Delhi is split into two main sections: Old Delhi and New Delhi. Old Delhi is the area defined by the old city wall, and is a maze of small alleyways and side streets. Old Delhi’s bazaars are legendary. The great wholesale bazaars of Chandni Chowk still retain a souk-like quality. Their narrow streets are lined with shops, their goods spill out on to the pavements. New Delhi grew under the British colonial rule and is characterised by the grandeur of 20th-century buildings and wide, tree-lined boulevards.
October 13: Delhi
Today, we enjoy a full day of sightseeing in majestic New Delhi, starting with India Gate, a memorial to the Indian servicemen who died in World War I (including at Gallipoli). It looks up Rajpath towards the imposing Secretariat and Presidential Palace buildings, which inspired the design for the New Zealand High Commission. We’ll also visit Gandhi Smriti where Mahatma Gandhi spent his last days, and tour the residence of India’s first prime minister, Jawaharlal Nehru. We’ll move on to visit the National Railway Museum, which celebrates the history of the world’s largest railway system, taking in the New Zealand High Commission and other features of Delhi’s diplomatic belt.
October 14: Delhi to Udaipur
We fly to Udaipur. Late in the afternoon, we enjoy a cruise on the 4km-long Lake Pichola, fringed with hills, palaces, havelis, ghats and temples. While on the cruise we will see the Lake Palace, built between 1734 and 1751. It was once a royal summer retreat and is now one of the world’s greatest hotels. It is also a popular location for film shoots, including James Bond’s Octopussy.
We will enjoy a great highlight dinner at the Raaj Bagh Restaurant – an Indian specialty restaurant in a fantastic location on the banks of Fateh Sagar Lake. The restaurant offers visitors an authentic experience with live folk music and dances.
October 15: Udaipur
We begin our second day in Udaipur with a drive around the lake. We also visit the Sahelion Ki Bari Gardens (Garden for the Maids of Honour). This delightful 18th-century retreat in the north of the city was built for the Queen of Udaipur, whose dowry included 48 maids. After lunch, we visit the massive City Palace, which overlooks Lake Pichola. Built in 1725, it has 11 palaces, including the Dilkhush Mahal, Sheesh Mahal, Moti Mahal, and the Palace of Lord Krishna, all ornately decorated. There will be time for a drink at the City Palace, before we walk down the street to our bus, with the opportunity to shop in the local stalls and with street hawkers along the way.
October 16: Udaipur to Bundi
We visit the Fort of Chittor, said to be originally built by Bhim, one of the mighty Pandava heroes of the Mahabharata legend. We also visit the ninestorey, 37-metre-high Vijay Stambh, built by Maharana Kumbha to commemorate his victory over Muslim rulers of Malwa and Gujarat in 1440.
Kirti Stambh, the 22m Tower of Fame, is covered with figures from the Jain Pantheon. This ancient city was sacked three times.
One of Rajasthan’s hidden gems, Bundi features the impressive Taragarh Fort on a hillside overlooking the town. Within the walls of the fort is the beautiful palace of Badal Mahal, which is famous for its exquisite murals. Take a walk
around Bundi to experience local life in the town, and discover the unique step wells, which were a vital source of water in the past.
October 17: Bundi to Ranthambore
Today, we drive to Ranthambore National Park, one of the prime examples of Project Tiger’s conservation efforts in Rajasthan. In the afternoon, we visit Dastkar Kendra – a women’s self-help initiative in Ranthambore. You’ll spend an hour learning about this interesting artisan project, then take a village walk accompanied by some of the women who live there.
October 18: Ranthambore
The forest around Ranthambore was once the private hunting grounds of the Maharajas of Jaipur. The desire to preserve the game for sport was ultimately responsible for their conservation and subsequent rescue by Project Tiger. Hence this national park is renowned for its tiger population. However, you may also come across other wild animals such as leopard, nilgai, wild boar, sambar, hyena, and the sloth bear.
October 19: Ranthambore to Jaipur
We drive to Jaipur, a city founded in 1727 as Mughal power within India was declining. At this time the then Maharaja, Jai Singh, moved his capital from Amer Fort on to the plain below.
The city is now the capital of Rajasthan State and commonly called the Pink City because of the pink paint on the buildings.
This was apparently done to imitate the magnificent, red sandstone buildings of the Mughals, and in an attempt to impress the Prince of Wales when he visited in 1876.
In the afternoon, we visit the Maharaja’s City Palace to explore the former royal residence; part of the building has been converted into a museum, while the royal family of Jaipur still use the remaining areas. Close to the City Palace is Jantar Mantar, the largest stone- and marble-crafted observatory in the world.
After dinner, we’ll enjoy the Sound & Light Show at Amer Fort.
October 20: Jaipur
We stop at Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds), en route to Amer Fort, or ‘‘Amber Fort’’ as the British called it. Erected in 1799 by the Sawai Pratap Singh, Hawa Mahal was built so that the veiled ladies of his harem could observe, unnoticed, the lively street scenes below. Inside Amer Fort, we visit the Hall of Victory, which houses the famed Sheesh Mahal.
October 21: Jaipur to Agra
We drive to Fatehpur Sikri, 40km from Agra. Fatehpur Sikri was built by Emperor Akbar in 1569 after it was prophesised the then childless Akbar would have sons if he moved his capital to the site.
At great expense to the empire, the capital was moved here but sadly only occupied for 14 years before slowly being deserted and ruined after Akbar left the city due to a scarcity of water.
While here we visit the remarkably wellpreserved and graceful buildings within the Ghost City, including the Jama Masjid, tomb of Salim Chisti, Panch Mahal Palace, and other palaces that speak of the grandeur and splendour of the Mughal Empire at the height of its power.
Enjoy an evening at the ‘‘Mohabbat The Taj’’ show followed by dinner. The show is a retelling of the Taj Mahal’s story. You’ll be swept up by the dance, music, and songs as you learn how the love between the Emperor Shah Jahan and his wife Mumtaz inspired the Taj.
October 22: Agra
Rise early to view the Taj Mahal in all its glory as the sun rises. The Taj Mahal was built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his favourite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, who died in 1631.
We then visit Agra Fort, situated on the west bank of the Yamuna River, and built by Emperor Akbar between 1565 and 1573.
Its imposing red sandstone ramparts form a crescent along the riverfront and encompass an enormous complex of courtly buildings, ranging in style from the early eclecticism of Akbar to the sublime elegance of Shah Jahan.
The barracks to the north are British additions from the 19th century. A deep moat, once filled with water from the Yamuna River, surrounds the fort.
Later, visit Itmad-ud-Daulah’s Tomb – built in memory of Mirza Ghiyas Beg, Jehangir’s wazir (minister). Also known as the ‘‘baby Taj’’, it was the first Mughal building to use the craft of facing buildings with white marble, and decorating them with inlaid semi-precious stones, an art that reached its zenith in the Taj Mahal. Though lacking the grandeur and artistry of the Taj, Itmadud-Daulah is small, intimate and serene.
October 23: Agra to Gurgaon (Delhi)
We stay in Gurgaon, an emerging city 30km from Delhi. Tonight we will visit the Kingdom of Dreams, a live entertainment destination, where we will watch a magical Bollywood performance.
October 24: Depart Gurgaon
After breakfast, you will be transferred from your hotel to the airport, according to the departure time of your international flight.
October 25: Arrive New Zealand
For many of us, the journey was a sensory overload – the opulent lifestyle of royalty before colonial rule, the grandeur of seven-star hotels, juxtaposed with poverty and corruption.