Red Boats Riverhead Cruise
This is a gentle putter up into the far reaches of upper Waitemata¯ harbour, along Rangitopuni Creek to Riverhead for lunch in the tavern there, before returning in an even more relaxed frame of mind.
The mode of transport is the very cute MV Hogwash, a little red and white boat that’s had a busy life, working mostly as a ferry. It was launched in 1949 and is on only its second engine in all that time.
Seen against the background of Westhaven Marina’s sleek, shiny, multimillion-dollar luxury yachts and motor cruisers, it certainly looks like the plucky little worker that it is, and there are no frills inside either. But, for the 90-minute cruise to the pub and back again, it has plenty of character and unpretentious comfort.
Having a draught of little more than a metre, it’s ideal for the shallow waters along the route.
Why go?
Because history was never this easy at school. Sit in the sun on the roof, or inside, to watch the scenery pass by as you learn about what has happened all along the route.
You might see Owha the resident leopard seal, or the scow Ted Ashby sailing ahead of you under the harbour bridge.
Captain Ben will tell you why Kauri Point has that name, how many bricks built the Chelsea Sugar refinery, and why you shouldn’t go near those ordinarylooking tin sheds under the cliff.
There are shipwrecks to hear about, a crashed Flying Fortress, a beach hand-built with buckets of sand, a Hare Krishna temple, and many beautiful homes to admire.
And then, at The Riverhead, there’s 150 years of lively history inside the country’s oldest original wooden building, though it’s so quiet and comfortable, sitting above the river, you’d never guess.
The food is great (the beerbattered chips are a triumph), and the ambience relaxed and friendly. Two and a half hours slip by effortlessly, then it’s time to chug home again.
Insider tip
Don’t worry if the Hogwash heads straight for a cliff: it’s just because of the winding channel through the silt. And if it’s handier for you, they’ll pick up from Birkenhead wharf.
On the way/nearby
Westhaven’s Z Pier and The Riverhead are decent walks from other places of interest. This trip is all about the boat, cruise and tavern, but The Riverhead does have events, so check on the website.
How much?
Excellent value for the ferry: $38 return for adults, $30 for Gold Card holders, and $18 for children 5- to 15 years. Parking at Westhaven is $20 for 24 hours. The main courses at The Riverhead are $27 to $34.
Best time to go
The cruise is ruled by the tide, so is not available every day, and departure times vary. Choose whether you want lunch or dinner at The Riverhead, then pick your date. See theredboats.co.nz and theriverhead.co.nz.