A Romanian romance
Bucharest throws off its Communist shackles
If you’re tired of the crowds in London, Rome and Barcelona and want a destination that offers a more authentic snapshot of city life, look no further than Romania’s colourful capital. Once dubbed the Paris of the East on account of its grand buildings and sophisticated elite, Bucharest’s more than four decades of communist rule changed the face of the city.
But some architectural gems remain, and having enjoyed a cultural revival, there’s arguably never been a better time to visit. Here’s a sense of the city’s history, culture and cuisine.
The Old Town quarter
One of the only parts of the city to survive the scourge of World War II and communism, the Lipscani quarter’s maze of cobbled streets are home to everything from historic points of interest to quirky antique stores, theatres, museums, bars, restaurants, and nightclubs.
History buffs should head to the striking Stavropoleos Church (stavropoleos.ro), which was completed in 1724, and the 15th-century ruins of Old Princely Court, where a notorious Wallachian prince known as Vlad the Impaler (Dracula, to you and me) cut his teeth.
Also worth exploring for an hour or two is the Museum of Bucharest (muzeulbucurestiului.ro), and have a bite to eat at Hanu’ lui Manuc (hanumanucrestaurant.ro), one of Europe’s oldest inns.
First opened in 1808, travelling merchants used to shelter overnight in the giant courtyard where the restaurant now serves up local delicacies. Sit back and admire the Wallachian architecture and traditional live music as you tuck into your pig’s feet (yes, really) or caramelised ram cutlets.
For those in need of a little direction, there are plenty of walking tours available with knowledgeable local guides, some of which are free (bucharest.walkaboutfreetours.com) or only require a small donation.
Palace of the Parliament
A monument to megalomania, communist dictator Nicolae Ceausescu’s imposing Palace of the Parliament sits at the end of Union Boulevard and casts a huge shadow over the capital, literally and figuratively.
The world’s largest administrative building after the Pentagon, with a surface area of 365,000 square metres and more than 1000 rooms, construction on Ceausescu’s totalitarian vanity project began in 1984, and much of its interior remains unfinished. The economic and human cost was so colossal that it remains an object of hate for many Romanians today.
However, since the collapse of communist rule the palace has assumed a more honourable function, housing the country’s parliament and hosting international conferences. The excellent National Museum of Contemporary Art (mnac.ro) also resides there.
If you wish to venture inside this marble behemoth to walk the palatial halls and learn more about Romania’s troubled past, several guided tours are available (cic.cdep.ro), from just 40 Romanian leu (NZ$15) a person and lasting around an hour. You’ll need to book ahead and bring your passport to gain entry.
Bucharest’s oldest brewery
Tucked away in the Lipscani quarter, Caru’ cu bere (‘‘the beer wagon’’) is a must visit for its neoGothic interior as much as for its famous brews and hearty Romanian cuisine.
Take a seat inside so you can marvel at the wood-carved balconies, stained-glass windows and lovingly painted frescoes that adorn the walls and ceilings of this late 18th-century beer house.
Try the slow-roasted pork knuckle with braised sour cabbage or the grilled mince meat rolls (mititei).
Caru’ cu bere is popular with locals and tourists, so it’s advisable to book a table (carucubere.ro) first to avoid disappointment.
Take a city bike tour
One of the first things you may notice in Bucharest on your way from the airport, is the heavy traffic that clogs the capital’s main arteries daily.
Bucharest has some of Europe’s busiest roads, so taking the metro or getting on two wheels is the best way to explore the sprawling city.
Given the absence of decent bike lanes (and driver etiquette, for that matter) it’s safer to join an organised bike tour with an experienced guide than chance it by yourself.
This way you also get a fascinating history lesson as you dart between notable attractions, including the neoclassical Romanian Athenaeum concert hall (fge.org), the picturesque Cismigiu Gardens, as well as Revolution Square, where the public revolt that led to the 1989 overthrow of the Ceausescu regime took root.
Bike The City (bikethecity.ro) offers two and four-hour tours, from 104 to 151 leu (around NZ$38$55) that cover all the key sights.
A dictator’s private pad
Thirty years after his bloody removal from power and the establishment of democracy, Ceausescu’s malign influence lives on.
Like so many dictators, Ceausescu and his wife Elena enjoyed a life of luxury while their people suffered economic hardship. You can see this for yourself at their private residence, the Palatul Primaverii (Spring Palace) (casaceausescu.ro) where they lived for around two decades with their three children until they were executed by firing squad in the Romanian Revolution.
After sitting virtually unused for 25 years, the 80-room villa was restored to its former splendour and opened to the public in 2016. Highlights of the standard 45-minute tour (50 leu/NZ$18.50), include the private cinema, indoor swimming pool and the couple’s bedroom. You must book at least a day in advance to visit the palace, which is open Tuesday to Sunday, from 10am-5pm.
The Obor Market
A predominantly agrarian nation, Romania’s peasant community provides the bulk of its fresh produce.
You can see (and taste) the fruits of their labour at the Piata Obor (piataoborbucuresti.ro), the largest, and one of the oldest, farmers’ markets in the country, dating to the 18th century.
You’ll find everything from honey, fresh meat and cheese to wild berries, spices and wine, all of which comes directly from the producer and for a fraction of the price in the supermarket.
There are also plenty of stalls selling wooden crafts, flowers and cheap clothes, should you be in need of a souvenir.
Treat yourself to some of the market’s famous mititei (traditional skinless sausage), typically washed down with a local tap beer.
Romanian art
Having being subjected to decades of stifling totalitarian rule, Romania has become a hive of artistic activity in recent years. There are dozens of art galleries, showcasing the work of established and up-and-coming artists.
Those with more traditional tastes should head for the National Museum of Art of Romania (mnar. arts.ro) on Calea Victoriei (Victory Ave). Inside the former Royal Palace, it houses the country’s largest collection and features works from Romanian artists such as Gheorghe Petrascu and Ioan Andreescu to European masters Rembrandt and Rubens. Tickets for the two permanent galleries cost 30 leu (NZ$11).
If modern art is more your thing, check out Galateca Gallery (galateca.ro), which opened in 2012.
Also of note is the H’art Gallery (artgallery.ro) that primarily exhibits young homegrown artists educated after the fall of communism, and Mobius (mobius-gallery.com), a contemporary art haven that stages regular talks and panel discussions.
The writer travelled at his own expense.