Great Barrier roads worth exploring
It’s hard to believe that just a hop, skip and a jump from the bright lights of Auckland lies the idyllic Dark Sky Sanctuary that is Great Barrier Island.
The four-hour trip on the Sealink car ferry from central Auckland to Great Barrier Island is more than a simple transit to your destination: that leisurely trip across the Hauraki Gulf allows for a vital mind slip into slomo island time.
Blissfully quiet and off-grid, it’s also the world’s first island Dark Sky Sanctuary.
Dolphins and orcas, bait-fish boil-ups, and gannets, set the tone for your visit to this unspoiled paradise, home to just 852 people. Some of them are there to welcome you as you drive on to the jetty at Tryphena Harbour, waving as you ease past their buckets of fish and on to the road. Get used to this slow pace: the Barrier is no place to put your foot down.
That’s because the roads are narrow and winding, with few long straights; but, equally important, you wouldn’t want to turn that stunning scenery into a blur, or to miss places (or people) of interest along the way. Follow the curve of the road around sparkling Shoal Bay into Pu¯ riri Bay and up the hill into the bush.
Stop when you see the life-size wooden carving of a father and child: Peter Edmonds will be there, in his Black Cow Gallery workshop, covered in sawdust and happy to stop for a yarn, to show you his bowls, birds and stirring sticks, or even let you have a go on his swing out over the valley.
Then you’ll have to turn around: get used to this, the island is full of no-exit roads.
Look out now for the flocks of rowdy, bossy kaka that Peter’s told you about, and be ready to brake for the endangered brown teal ducks waddling across the road.
You’ll definitely want to stop at the top of the hill for your first view over Medlands Beach: a long and lovely curve of squeaky-white sand between the green farmland and tropical turquoise sea.
It’s a classic, and close-up it’s even better, whether you’re a surfer, swimmer or sunbather.
Check out the sheltered waters of Mermaid Pool at Kaitoke Beach and then drop into nearby Claris for essentials such as coffee, food, the art gallery, and the quirky museum.
Now, turn left to wind down into secluded Blind Bay where pods of dolphins come to chill out, or take the other fork towards Whangaparapara to nose around the old stamper battery, a remnant of the goldmining days, and the kauri mill, a remnant of the timber days, and the whaling station, remnant of . . . well, you get the picture – Great Barrier has had its share of busy history, which you learnt all about at the museum.
Now life’s a lot quieter, which you can appreciate by taking a gentle bush stroll to Kaitoke Hot Springs for a soak in a fern-fringed, totally natural pool.
Cruise back and then head north, looking left at the island’s rugged backbone, Mt Hobson peeping out of the forest where walking trails (there are many on the island) offer spectacular views.
The road has plenty too, over little bays and islets, rivers and cliffs, and it brings you finally to Port Fitzroy.
Here, beyond a hi-tech fence is the Glenfern Sanctuary, full of birds, and with a fun swing bridge into the top of a kauri tree.
From a high point on this protected peninsula enjoy a 360-degree view over bush, bay, beach, boats, birds and beyond, where a couple of roads still wait to be explored.
You need more time: luckily, they have that in spades on Great Barrier Island. greatbarrier.co.nz