Our Pompeii
Rotorua’s Te Wairoa village
This is New Zealand’s Pompeii: a village, full of homes and people, that was buried under metres of mud in the massively violent 1886 eruption of Mt Tarawera.
Years later, it was partially excavated. Now you can walk through the Te Wairoa buried village to see where and how the Ma¯ori and European inhabitants lived before the mountain exploded, killing more than 150 of them there and in neighbouring settlements.
Why go?
Because it’s satisfying to be part of the return of Te Wairoa to its original purpose. The town was founded in 1848 to service tourists who were on their way to see the world-famous Pink and White Terraces, coming from Europe by ship, steamer, coach, horseback, foot and, finally, canoe to marvel at their beauty.
They were guided by locals and, on a visit to the village, you may be lucky enough to talk to direct descendants of those who lived and worked there in its heyday.
Allow plenty of time to work your way through the excellent interactive museum, full of excavated artefacts and information about life then. It details the dramatic triple-cone eruption of the volcano and tells the intriguing story of the phantom canoe that was seen beforehand. There are inspiring tales of courage and heroism in the midst of the disaster, and sad stories of horror and loss.
You’ll learn about the tohunga, or priest, Tu¯ hoto Ariki, who was blamed for the eruption and left buried in his whare for four days.
Afterwards, walk around the site, look at the excavations and authentic reconstructions, and you will meet more costumed attendants who will bring it all to life. And there’s a free multimedia guide you can use as well.
Insider tip
Wear walking shoes – and don’t skip the track through the bush to the 30-metre-high Wairere Falls.
Stand at the bottom and enjoy a refreshing shower, then reward yourself with a treat at the cafe.
On the way/nearby
If you want to complete the historic tourist circle and see the Pink and White Terraces for yourself, you can take a boat tour on Lake Rotomahana and use an app that’s been developed to show you what’s beneath the water. Get there from Waimangu Volcanic Valley, which is well worth a visit in itself for a walk past steaming hot pools. You could take off from Lake Rotorua in a floatplane to fly over Mt Tarawera to see the huge and dramatic split in the mountain made by the eruption, still starkly red.
How much?
Adults $30, teenagers $10, children $5, families $65. The village is open every day except Christmas Day, from 9am to 5pm.
Best time to go
Choose a fine day because much of the time you will be outdoors. buriedvillage.co.nz