The Catlins forgotten paradise
When your neighbours are called Queenstown, Tekapo, the West Coast, Stewart Island, and Dunedin, it’s easy to slip off the radar. I’ve always had a rough piece of advice for exploring New Zealand: the further south you go, the more beautiful it gets.
I know that argument has more holes than a sieve. The Bay of Islands, Napier, Rotorua, and Wellington are unmissable, to name but a few.
However, the drama of the landscape in the deep south is unrivalled, carved by the elements and glaciers over millions of years.
If we take my advice, Bluff should be the most picturesque point in the country. But that’s wrong because Bluff is, well, bluffing.
The actual southern-most point of the mainland is known as Slope Point, which is part of the Catlins. Forget the wild west, an hour from Invercargill you’ll find Jurassic forests, windswept white sandy beaches, sacred waterfalls, cathedral caves, eco retreats, and rare wildlife.
Welcome to the wild south: when compared to the likes of Queenstown, the Catlins is our forgotten paradise.
Pristine beaches and wildlife
For a region pounded by some of the country’s largest ocean swells, the Catlins has a remarkable collection of almost-tropical looking white sandy beaches.
The most well-known is the adjoined Curio and Porpoise bays, a favourite for one of our rarest dolphins. Around 20 Hector’s dolphins live in the two bays. In summer and autumn, they are regularly spotted in the shallows playing in the waves, feeding, and caring for their young. It’s the only known place in New Zealand where this regularly happens.
On our visit, we took a surf lesson with local legend Nick Smart. The ever-energetic surfer told us he’d get us standing in no time, and that the dolphins may even come to join in, although he explained, we would leave it up to them if they wanted to come over.
Sure enough, Smart had everyone up riding within 20 minutes and, shortly after, the dolphins joined us, taking delight in riding the waves next to the surfers.
It’s important to point out there are some strict rules around swimming with the dolphins.
According to the Department of Conservation, you must enter the water at least 50 metres away from them, and let them come to you. You should never approach them.
Dolphins aren’t the only rare wildlife spotted in these parts of the world. Several yellow-eyed penguins nest in Curio Bay, and there’s a dedicated wildlife walk where you can try to spot them.
These little aquatic gems are one of the rarest penguin species in the world, and only 5000-7000 are left in New Zealand.
The birds usually lay around September and October, and your best chance of spotting them is in the early morning or late afternoon, when they come and go from the nest.
You may also spot sea lions, fur seals, leopard seals or even elephant seals at Nugget Point, between December and February. The 40-minute walk to the lighthouse there, on a dramatic rocky outcrop, is not to be missed.
Jurassic forest
Curio Bay is home to one of the most significant fossil forests in the world, dating back 180 million years when New Zealand was part of the supercontinent Gondwana.
It’s believed massive floods from nearby volcanic mountains buried the forest multiple times, and eventually turned it to rock – leading to a fossilised forest.
In the past 10,000 years, erosion has revealed stumps and logs that have spent millions of years underground.
Cathedral Caves
I love Coromandel’s Cathedral Cove, but it’s almost always crowded. The Catlins’ version doesn’t have the same problem.
These caves are only accessed at low tide after a gentle, but beautiful, 15-minute walk through lush rainforest.
Along the beach are two dramatic caves tunnelled into the side of the hill, sculpted by an angry sea over thousands of years. The caves join up deep underground, and together measure more than 200 metres.
Explore as much as you dare, but bring a torch if you intend going right in – penguins occasionally
use the caves, and you don’t want to disturb them.
The caves are open between October and May. There’s a $10 access fee to walk across Ma¯ ori land.
Get back to nature
You can feel your body start to relax as soon as you arrive at Catlins Mohua Park Eco Accommodation, thanks to the long tree tunnel you drive through on the way to the eco-cabins.
The four luxury huts are set among the bush, overlooking rolling pasture, so relaxation is almost compulsory.
You’ll find bush walks nearby, and owners Gill and Lyndon McKenzie are passionate locals, who are happy to give you advice about what to see. Don’t miss Gill’s home-cooked breakfast.
The rugged terrain
One of the best ways to explore the true beauty of the region is on horseback, traversing a pristine, 660 hectare, certified organic beef and sheep farm.
On the trek, you’ll ascend soaring peaks, offering 360-degree views of the ocean up into the Catlins Forest Park.
Alongside the hour-long farm experience, Catlins Horse Riding offers bush and beach treks and, at $150 for three hours, it’s an affordable way to immerse yourself in the pristine wilderness.
The real end of Aotearoa
One of the country’s greatest myths is that Bluff is the southern-most point of the mainland. That title actually falls with a slightly more humble little spot, Slope Point, about 70 kilometres from Invercargill.
It’s a 20-minute free walk across farmland to the jagged-cliffed coast, simply marked with a sign directing you to the South Pole, which is 4803km away. In Bluff, you’re 7km further north.
Be sure to avoid lambing season, from September to November, when the track is closed.
Sacred waterfalls
The Catlins is full of sacred waterfalls scattered among its dense rainforest, and a couple of these shouldn’t be missed.
The Pu¯ ra¯ kaunui Falls, with three substantial tiers, is the most photographed in the region. Arrive early or late into the evening to have the place to yourself. It’s an easy 20-minute return walk from the carpark.
My favourite, however, is McClean Falls. This longer, 40-minute walk, weaves through a dense, ancient-looking podocarp forest, filled with birdsong.
You’ll eventually emerge at a towering waterfall that cascades into a narrow gorge.
If you see Niagara Falls on a map, don’t be fooled, this was a surveyor’s attempt at irony.
A more realistic name is perhaps the Catlins Miniature Rapid.
The writer’s trip was supported by Great South.