Route to the sky
Great Walks through Fiordland
Fiordland National Park is a spectacular meeting of land and sea, where the remote solitude of true wilderness is the background to a trio of the country’s Great Walks.
Why go
British maritime explorer Captain James Cook visited the remote southwest corner of Te Waipounamu (the South Island) in 1770 and 1773 and, 250 years after his voyages on the Endeavour and the Resolution, the views he enjoyed in the sheltered waters of the Doubtful and Dusky sounds remain identical and incredible.
Framed by sprawling tracts of untouched forest and soaring alpine peaks, narrow fiords meander inland from the wild southern energy of the Tasman Sea. Quicksilver waterfalls flow from moss-cloaked granite cliffs, refreshed by rainfall and melting alpine snow. The Ma¯ori name for Doubtful Sound – Pa¯tea, meaning ‘‘place of silence’’ – is perfect in its understatement, especially when waking at dawn on an expedition vessel, or purposely paddling a sea kayak.
Three of New Zealand’s most popular Great Walks negotiate careful paths through lush temperate rainforest and rugged alpine landscapes. Dominated by the 1.6-kilometre-high Mitre Peak/ Ra¯hotu, the inky and silent waters of Milford Sound can be explored by watercraft big and small.
From above, on a scenic helicopter or floatplane flight, Fiordland National Park’s reputation as our most beautiful and remote wilderness area is spectacularly assured.
When to go
Late October to April is the best time to visit Fiordland National Park, taking in the Great Walks season, and offering the best of chance of settled weather and the opportunity to see Mitre Peak unencumbered by a shroud of mist or fog.
Fiordland’s weather can be extremely fickle however, and it can still rain any day of the year.
What to do
Framed by silvery waterfalls and known to Ma¯ori as Piopiotahi, Milford Sound is the most popular destination in the park.
A number cruises traverse the sound’s deep indigo waters, ideally with a view of Mitre Peak, but the region’s often capricious climate means the iconic mountain can be obscured by mist or cloud.
Day cruises on the sound are deservedly popular, and sea-kayaking is another excellent way to experience the scale and grandeur of the location.
Excursions with Rosco’s Milford Sound Kayaks include the relaxed 5km paddle of the Milford Cruiser experience, which is a good option for families, while the Sunriser Classic kicks off in the morning for a more challenging 10km loop around the sound.
To see what’s going on beneath the water, visit the Milford Sound Underwater Observatory, included on cruises with Southern Discoveries and Mitre Peak Cruises.
With options for underwater newbies and experienced divers, Descend Scuba Diving explores the sound’s chilly southern depths to view rare black coral, more than 150 species of fish, and the occasional dolphins, seals or stingrays.
Further south along Fiordland’s extreme and rugged coast, the forested coves of Doubtful Sound can be explored by kayak with Doubtful Sound Kayak. Real Journeys offers overnight cruising and sailing experiences in Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound, and multi-day expeditions in Dusky Sound.
The remote Dusky Sound – our largest fiord, visited by James Cook on the Resolution in 1773 – is also included on Fiordland Discovery’s week-long luxury small boat trip. A three-day/two-night adventure is also available. Sharing Milford Sound’s iconic status are the park’s three Great Walks. Spanning four days/three nights, the Milford Track covers 54km through a landscape encompassing verdant rainforest, glacial valleys, and the significant challenge of cresting the Mackinnon Pass.
Linking the Fiordland and Mt Aspiring national parks, the Routeburn Track is a worthy contender to Milford Track’s crown, with a spectacular 32km (usually three days/two nights) route featuring reflective tarns (alpine lakes), waterfalls, and magical, moss-shrouded glades.
Starting with a peaceful morning water taxi across Lake TeAnau, the Kepler Track’s 60km, four day/three night loop negotiates an alpine landscape of rugged ridges, serene beech forests, and exposed tussocky plateaus. The Department of Conservation recommends all three tracks are tackled from lateOctober to April during the Great Walks season.
Fringing the southeast edges of the national park, the Hump Ridge Track meanders for 62km (three days/two nights), hugging the coast at Te Waewae Bay with views across Foveaux Strait to Stewart Island. The Hump Ridge Track can be walked yearround, and booking ahead is essential.
Accommodation
Accommodation while hiking the park’s three Great Walks is at DOC huts, all of which must be prebooked online at greatwalks.co.nz.
Demand across summer is high and booking well in advance is strongly recommended.
Ultimate Hikes offers its own more comfortable lodge accommodation on its guided tours of the Milford and Routeburn tracks, while the Hump Ridge Track has backcountry lodges at Okaka and Port Craig. Milford Sound Lodge is near the sound, and Te nau and Manapo¯uri – nearer to Doubtful Sound – offer camping, backpackers, bed and breakfasts, and motels.
Location
New Zealand’s largest national park sprawls across the extreme southwest of the South Island, and is a Unesco World Heritage area.
From Invercargill, it’s a quick two-hour drive northwest on State Highway 6 to Te nau via ¯ A Lumsden, but it’s better to take the slightly longer Southern Scenic Route via Riverton and Tuatapere. Stop for a Southland cheese roll at The Crib Cafe in Riverton.
From Queenstown, the most practical arrival airport for visitors, the journey is also about two hours. The first part of the drive along the southeast edge of Lake Wakatipu to Kingston is particularly scenic. Stop ¯atAthe Devil’s Staircase lookout for spectacular lake views.
Gateway Town
¯TeA nau is the scenic hub for visiting Milford Sound, and for tackling the Milford, Routeburn and Kepler tracks.
FreshChoice supermarket is the best option for a pre-tramp shop, while Bev’s Tramping Gear Hire has everything you need, from packs and sleeping bags to waterproof overtrousers and gaiters.
Head to Sandfly Cafe for coffee and pre-walk planning, and snack on steamed bao buns at the Bao Now food truck, or a lamb and mint pie from Miles Better Pies.
Celebrate completing a Great Walk with cocktails at Black Dog Bar, and enjoy Stewart Island salmon or Fiordland wild venison at Redcliff Cafe.