Beneath the rolling hills
Iwas meant to visit Tuscany this year. There’s nowhere in Italy that I adore more, and 2020 was the year to return. But here I am, 18,400 kilometres away in Matakana – and New Zealand’s little slice of Tuscany has stolen my heart.
I’ve just entered the Matakana Farmers’ Market, and there’s an excited crowd gathered. Could it be the Prime Minister? Free chocolate? I fight my way to the front to reveal a miniature garage. But you don’t park cars here, this is where you drop off your dog while you enjoy the market. And the ‘‘dog park’’ has turned into quite a tourist attraction.
A pair of sausage dogs sit next to a labrador, who looks like he’s had too many sausages in his time.
Beside them, a love triangle is emerging. A golden retriever looks longingly into a poodle’s eyes. It replies by thoroughly ignoring him, and focusing intently on the resident toyboy: an immaculately groomed schnauzer. Forget The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills, these are The Real Dogs of Matakana, and each week the live show draws a crowd.
Instead of spending the entire day watching dogs, we head into the market. It’s immediately clear the region attracts some of the country’s finest artisans, and the fruits of their hard work are all on display.
We find exceptional coffee, chocolate, pastries, kombucha, pizza, fresh fruit, and delicious homemade nut butters, among hundreds of treats.
It’s a carnival-like atmosphere, and the obsession with food against a backdrop of lush rolling valleys makes me feel like I’m in Italy. Here’s what else you have to look forward at Matakana.
The Museum of Modern Art – Kiwi style
Forget New York’s Museum of Modern Art, we have our own version right here: Sculptureum.
Owners Anthony and Sandra Grant have spent more than a decade collecting an Alice-inWonderland-type collection of mesmerising sculptures and art pieces all organised into a 1.5km maze. You’ll journey between life-size elephants made of driftwood, giant neon pink snails, and even a tin version of The Lion King’s Rafiki.
I controversially believe 90 per cent of the population find art galleries boring. Thankfully, Sculptureum is made for the masses. It’s a place where the 90 per cent can find delight even if you have no interest in art.
The other notable sculpture park in the region is at Brick Bay Wines, about 10 minutes outside Matakana.
The winery has a stunning series of sculptures that form an outdoor safari, which kids will love. You can even take your well-behaved dog, then stop in for lunch at the restaurant cantilevered over a central lake.
A wildlife safari
Most New Zealanders think they need to go to Stewart Island to see a kiwi in the wild. But what if I told you that your best chance is actually in Auckland?
Tawharanui Open Sanctuary is the region’s bestkept secret. You’ll find the bush-covered, predatorfree coastal sanctuary 20 minutes from Matakana, and it has an abundance of New Zealand birdlife.
Most people head out at dusk searching for kiwi on their own, with little luck. The trick is to head out with Habitat Tours. Guide Tristan Cullen has a thermal imaging camera that makes kiwi stand out like a lit up Christmas tree.
We’d found our first within 10 minutes, and it walked out of the bush right in front of us. Over the next half hour, we found morepork, we¯ta¯, and two more kiwi. The tour includes supper on the beach watching the sunset, with a free concert by the resident population of tu¯ı¯.
Exceptional food
In my eyes, Matakana takes the title of having the best concentration of culinary choices anywhere in New Zealand.
Outside Plume Villas, the Tuscan-style accommodation we stayed in, we found Charlies Gelato shop. It proudly says it makes sorbet the way the Italians do: from scratch.
In Matakana Village, a short drive away, The roastery is overflowing with the magical aroma of its award-winning coffee. Next door is Matakana Bacon Company, where ‘‘Steve, the bacon man’’ produces nitrate and sugar-free bacon for his delicious bacon butties.
Nearby, Ringawera Baker creates pastries that make you feel like you’ve woken up in France, and Honest Chocolat makes some of the best sweet treats.
Unwind at The Sawmill
Matakana’s local brewery is an institution, not only because it makes excellent craft beer, but because it’s not all about profits. Solar panels power the plant, and the operation is moving towards zero waste. For example, the ‘‘spent grain’’ that is used to make beer is recycled into crackers, sent to local farmers, or is even made into bread.
There’s a kaleidoscope of exciting beers to try (look out for Passionfruit Sour), and you’ll want to sit down at the adjoining restaurant, which has cheese, olive oil, bread, and fruit and vegetables that are all locally sourced. You can drink and eat your way around the region, without lifting a leg.
A dash of the tropics
Drive just 20 minutes from Matakana towards the coast, and our little slice of Tuscany takes on a tropical twist.
The Goat Island Marine Reserve has more than 100 species of fish, including two giant snapper named Monkey Face and Charlie Lip.
While swimming through the reserve is popular in summer, taking a transparent kayak is the best way to see everything without getting wet.
The snapper follow along and glare up at you, forming an unofficial underwater procession as you move through the reserve.
An afternoon to remember
Twenty minutes away from Matakana is a distillery like no other. The solar-powered Puhoi Organic Distillery is run by former Ukrainian nuclear engineer Alex Kirichuk, who was sent to the Chernobyl Nuclear Power Plant after the disaster.
Kirichuk was exposed to heavy levels of radiation but says he’s alive today because of his wife, a doctor who specialises in medicine around natural adaptogens, often mixed with spirits. The distillery has been named one of the most exciting in the world, and has several awards under its belt. And you can experience it all on a hosted visit.
The Kirichuk family will welcome you as their own, and provide a tour of the factory and a lavish feast of Ukrainian snacks combined with an extensive tasting session. We tried spirits such as ginseng vodka and ‘‘blue blood’’ gin that turns violet when mixed with tonic.
The tasting session is ideal for a group of 10-20 people, and it’s strictly about enjoying Ukrainian hospitality rather than getting drunk.
And here’s where it gets even more interesting. A tasting session is by invitation only.
When booking, you need to make your case to Alex about why you want to come, then he will decide whether to offer you an invitation. If you are lucky enough to get in, it’s an afternoon you will never forget.
The writer’s trip was supported by Auckland Tourism, Events and Economic Development (ATEED). This story was produced with as part of an editorial partnership with ATEED.