Celebrate with Duke
For an anniversary treat, Mary De Ruyter stays on the Russell waterfront in a grand establishment with a rich history.
The Duke of Marlborough Hotel (aka the Duke) has gone through numerous owners and burned down twice since its inception in 1827. But it endures, a beacon on genteel Russell’s waterfront.
Location
Romantic Russell is no longer the stomping ground of rascals and reprobates it was in the 1830s. Then, the town known as Korora¯reka in the early 19th century, was the biggest whaling port in the southern hemisphere, full of illegal grog shops, prostitution and lawlessness; ‘‘the hellhole of the Pacific’’.
The Duke is right by the jetty, well positioned for glorious sunsets. You’ll likely arrive after catching the car ferry from
pua to Okiato, the nation’s first capital. There’s also a passenger ferry from Paihia.
The space
Historic buildings can feel gloomy if dark wood and antique furniture dominate the decor. But here they have the balance right between light and dark, and the walls are crowded with eyecatching artworks and historic photographs.
The building began life in 1875, as accommodation for telegraph workers in Cable Bay, and was shifted to Russell in 1932. The current owners have added balconies to the waterfront rooms, as the first Duke had, and have added 13 rooms to the back. All older rooms were recently renovated, so the vibe is modern comfort with luxurious touches. We stayed in a waterfront room, and the balcony was a great spot for a morning cuppa and a wine at sunset.
The art
The art and artefacts in the Duke’s restaurant, bar, hallways, and bedrooms, were created or curated by Northlandbased artist Lester Hall, a man who clearly loves history but also has a sense of humour. It’s mixed-up, irreverent and interesting.
The food
Once the scene of much 1980s excess, today the restaurant is bustling and civilised. It serves breakfast for hotel guests, and lunch and dinner for all. Expect locally sourced, seasonal produce and a highly respectable range of seafood options.
The beverage list offers more than 100 wines, and about 30 beers. The lemontart martini and negrita went down a treat, but points off for the plastic straw in my aperol spritz. In our room, there was plunger coffee and a Harney & Sons tea sampler.
Elsewhere in Russell, we had three very good meals at Butterfish. Some eateries were closed for winter, but kudos to the bagel joint for being open and being named Hell Hole.
Stepping out
If you go to one place here, make it Pompallier Mission and Printery. The 1842 rammed-earth building originally housed a printery that translated religious texts from Latin to te reo Ma¯ori, printed and bound books, and today it’s a working printery and tannery. The tour is fascinating.
Wander up Flagstaff Hill, where Ho¯ne Heke felled the flagpole four times in protest against the British, to Russell Museum, or to Christ Church with musket ball holes in its exterior walls from the 1845 Battle of Korora¯reka.
The Waitangi Treaty Grounds is just across the water, and the Bay of Islands has wellestablished outdoor offerings: boat tours, scenic flights, sailing and fishing charters, diving, parasailing, golf, mountain biking and more.
Highlight
The whole package, really. Waterfront location, great food and service, palpable history, locals to chat to at the bar.
Lowlight
We booked a waterfront room as our anniversary splurge, and the panoramic photo dominating that webpage showed an expansive room with separate lounge area; the waterfront room we got was half that size. On re-checking the website, I saw a photo of our room, but shot in a way that I couldn’t tell it was half the size until I’d been in it. Perhaps a rookie error on my part, but still disappointing.
Essentials
The Duke has seven room types ($150-$290 a night until December 14), and a onebedroom standalone apartment ($290 a night). Visit theduke.co.nz for details.
The writer paid for her own travel.